Monday, December 27, 2010

RABBIT WORLD AGRO




Tuesday, December 14, 2010

The Ideal Rabbit Hutch

Not only are rabbits cute, they make excellent pets requiring minimal care once you know what you’re doing. Bear in mind that rabbits can live anywhere from 5-10 years so make sure you’re ready to make that kind of commitment before buying one. Also be prepared to provide your pet with an appropriate rabbit hutch so your bunny can feel safe and secure. Consider the amount of time you have available to interact with your pet because rabbits are social creatures and shouldn’t be left alone for long periods of time. If you’re thinking of getting more than one rabbit then consider purchasing one of the larger multi level rabbit hutches available.

If you decide to buy an indoor rabbit hutch then you will have to provide it with some outdoor time. A rabbit run in your garden would be ideal but be very careful to make sure it’s predator proof. Never leave your rabbit unsupervised in an insecure rabbit run. If your rabbit is kept indoors you must provide it with entertainment. Allow your rabbit freedom to run around in a room but make sure there is nothing to harm it such as chemicals and electric cables. Rabbits love to chew so provide your bunny with toys and safe things to chew on.

If, on the other hand, you have room in your garden or backyard, you may consider an outdoor rabbit hutch. Outdoor rabbit hutches come in a large variety of sizes and designs. Always ensure you choose the proper size for your rabbit, keeping in mind the general rule that the hutch should be at least 4 times the size of your rabbit to allow it to move around fairly easily. Bigger is always better and some rabbit hutches even come with a rabbit run to provide your rabbit with some outdoor exploration experience. Rabbits love to hop around and explore.

When space is limited you can elect to purchase a multi level rabbit hutch to ensure your rabbit has ample space to move about. Wooden rabbit hutches are the best when choosing an outdoor hutch. Some multi level rabbit hutches even provide attic and storage space. The attic space can be filled with straw during the winter months to provide warmth and insulation. Storage space can be used to keep food and treats for your rabbit in a convenient and tidy manner. If you live in a particularly cold part of the world, rabbit hutch covers are available to provide extra warmth and insulation.

Whichever design you choose, make sure it is sturdy and safe. Rabbits are easily frightened and your rabbit hutch should provide an enclosed area where your rabbit can hide from anything that intimidates it. So next time you’re choosing from amongst the many rabbit hutches available, remember these simple rules: size, safety and practicality. Making the right choice can mean the difference between having a healthy, thriving pet and one that is unhappy and unhealthy.

Housing Your Pet Rabbit – Finding the Perfect Hutch


Rabbits make ideal first pets and are relatively easy to take care of; however, before you go out and get one, you have to make sure you have a proper rabbit hutch. It is vital for the well-being of your future pet that careful care and consideration goes into the preparation of your new rabbit’s home, some breeds of rabbits can live up to 15 years so extra care should be taken to ensure your bunny leads a safe and comfortable existence. Rabbits like to hop around so be sure to get a good sized rabbit cage or hutch for your bunny. A good rule of thumb is to get a hutch that is at least four times the size of your rabbit, bigger is always better. Also make sure your rabbit can sit up without hitting its head on the ceiling. You will also have to decide if you’re going to keep your rabbit indoors or out.

As rabbit are prey animals, they can be easily scared or intimidated by night time prowlers such as dogs, cats and foxes, so you will have to provide your rabbit with a safe shelter if you will be keeping it outdoors. If you decide to buy an outdoor rabbit hutch choose one that is sturdy and well built. There is a wide variety of rabbit hutches available to choose from so try to pick on that has a sheltered area to provide your rabbit with warmth and security. A wooden rabbit hutch is ideal for keeping your rabbit outdoors and to further weatherproof and insulate it rabbit hutch covers can be used.

Some hutches are outfitted with a rabbit run to give your rabbit space to exercise and some even have storage spaces to conveniently store all your rabbit paraphernalia. If your rabbit hutch has a rabbit run which allows your rabbit access to a lawn, make sure that area is never treated with any chemicals such as pesticides or herbicides. The rabbit run should be securely wired with care taken that the rabbit doesn’t burrow out from under it.

If space is an issue you can purchase a multi level rabbit hutch to ensure your rabbit has space to move around and explore. Avoid hutches with wire flooring as they can cause damage to the rabbit’s paws and hocks, a solid floor is more appropriate. Most rabbit cages and hutches come with a pull out pan to enable easy cleaning, and you can even litter train your rabbit to use a litter pan.

Always practice common sense when choosing your rabbit hutch. A rabbit can die of fright if spooked by a predator so it’s crucial to provide a secure environment for your bunny so it can hide from prying eyes (and prying claws) and feel safe. If you decide to get more than one rabbit, make sure you get an adequately sized rabbit hutch otherwise they might end up fighting. If the weather in your area is harsh, provide your rabbit with straw or hay and a hot water bottle for warmth. As mentioned before rabbit hutch covers are available which provide extra weatherproofing and insulation. Choosing the right rabbit hutch can help ensure you many years of enjoyment with your bunny.

What Kind of Care Do Rabbits Need?


There are a number of different things that need to be done in order to make sure that your pet rabbit is as happy as possible. Many of us that own rabbits as pets really enjoy the personality that many of these unusual animals have. If we take care of them properly, they will be healthy and will provide us with years of companionship. Here are several different ways that you can take care of your rabbit to make sure that they are as well-adjusted as possible.

One of the most important things for you to consider is the type of housing that you're going to give your pet rabbit. There is a bare minimum of 2' x 2' x 4' that is necessary in order to house your rabbit properly. Most people tend to go a little bit larger than that, even though the rabbit will not necessarily know the difference. The type of material that is used for the rabbit hutch is also something to consider, and you would want to make sure to provide a solid surface in order for them to have a comfortable place to rest. Even though the majority of it can be made out of wire, don't force them to stay on the wire permanently.

Feeding your rabbit properly is also very important, and there are a number of different things for you to consider in this regard. Most of the rabbit chow that is available commercially is able to provide much of what your rabbit is going to need, but you are going to have to supplement their diet with fresh, raw vegetables. It is especially important to provide your rabbit with green, leafy vegetables on a daily basis. Many people also feed their rabbits sprouts and other vegetables as a treat and also because of the energy that it will provide for them. Humans can learn a lot from the way that rabbits eat.

As far as exercise is concerned, this is something that every rabbit is going to need on a daily basis. If you currently are keeping your rabbit outdoors, it is important for you to provide a large area that is enclosed completely in order to avoid escape. Several hours a day is a sufficient amount of exercise, and they will surely enjoy even more if you are able to provide it for them. Indoor rabbits may enjoy the run of the home, but you might end up having to pick up after them quite a bit in the process.

One final thing that you need to think about is the grooming that your rabbit may need. A daily brushing with a flea brush, is essential in order to make sure that your rabbit's coat is as smooth and critter free as possible. It is also a good idea for you to regularly schedule visits with your veterinarian and perhaps even take them for a professional grooming from time to time. All of these things combined can help to keep your rabbit as healthy as possible.

Some Different Styles Of Rabbit Cages


Rabbits are clean animals and they enjoy being litter-trained; therefore, they are quite happy to live in rabbit cages which keep them safe and comfortable. There are many styles of prefabricated or do-it-yourself cages to choose from according to your preferences and needs. Well made, indoor and large outdoor cages or pens will help your pet live a happy, healthy life.

The first and most important factor to consider with any type of cage is, however, that the size ought to correspond proportionally to the size of the bunny. It is recommended that the cage be at least four times as big as your rabbit. A 36" x 36" cage, with a height of 24" to 36", ought to be sufficient to accommodate a single rabbit weighing over 8 pounds.

Any style of cage with a height of at least 24" could accommodate within it a second-story loft with a ramp. This type of cage, as well as those without a loft and only one story high, would benefit from having a ramp which leads from the exit-way allowing your pet to come and go leisurely from their little haven. It is for this specific reason that a cage with a side-door is recommended over one with a top door.

Your cage should have a secure locking device to ensure that it remains tightly closed, especially in the case of side doors. Otherwise, it would be unfortunate if the little furry guy or gal squeezed through, burrowed out, or got stuck in the doorway when no one was around to catch it or help it out of its dilemma!

A cage with a larger doorway on the side is preferable over a smaller one one so as to facilitate easy removal of a litter pan. And as previously mentioned, the rabbit can then get itself in and out easily without your help. Since the best cages are made of wire, it would be in your best interest, and that of your rabbit's, to ensure that the all side-door frames are smoothly covered to prevent injuries and deter rabbit-chewing.

A style of cage with wood flooring instead of wire would be cozier for your pet so its paws and skin do not become irritated. If treated with a non-toxic substance and fitted tightly against the sides of the cage, wood flooring would be safe for bunny, impossible to chew and easy to remove for cleaning. A soft layer of hay covering an easy-clean floor would be appreciated by your rabbit and the cleanliness of the cage would be simple to maintain.

Hay will stay fresh, soft and dry if there is a litter box available for your pet and if the hay-bed is replaced at least weekly. You can simply brush the old hay from the wood, wipe the floor clean using non-toxic cleaners and reduce your cleaning time while simultaneously making this style almost self-cleaning - you will be as happy as your pet!

Outdoor types of cages can be constructed or prefabricated just as easily as indoor ones. A well-covered, secure, outdoor playpen area would be appreciated by your pet, but don't forget to be sure that you have laid down an indestructible floor underneath it - as rabbits love to burrow and chew.

Bad weather and predators such as cats, dogs, hawks, etc. Will not be able to harm your pet in its safe, outdoor cage. In addition to the indoor styles mentioned earlier, an outdoor cage modeled with a bit of sophistication would sport a water-proof, covered top. If this cover allowed light in as well, your bunny would love to being out of doors while you are away during the workday provided it will be shielded from the blazing sun. It will also enjoy sleeping in its protected environment all night long.

The range of styles of rabbit cages is much larger than one would think. Given that wide selection, however, just a as with humans, the cleaner and safer rabbit cages are, the happier the rabbit.

Rabbit Hutch - How Big Should A Rabbit Cage Be?


How big should my rabbit cage be?

If you have a rabbit or you are thinking of getting one, then you he is going to need a cage of some sort. This is where you rabbit can enjoy some quiet time.

But how big should this cage be?

Most vets will recommend that for a 6 to 7 pound bunny, the dimensions of the cage should be as follows:

2 Ft. Wide
2 Ft. Long
18 inches high

Why so big? Well, you want to give your rabbit room to just be, to stretch out, perhaps do a little exercise, or even stand up. Even though your rabbit may be tiny right now, that little bunny is going to grow up, so get a cage that your rabbit is going to grow into not grow out of.

Also, make sure that the cage is constructed well, that means if you see something like chicken wire in the cage, hop away and leave it at the shop. The floor also should be sturdy too.

You want to avoid having wire on the floor of your rabbits cage. Your rabbits paws can get a condition called "sore hocks" from walking on a wire floor too much. If you have wire on the floor, then you can cover with any kind of wood with one exception: Whatever you do, don't use redwood! It's very toxic for rabbits!

Keep in mind that a cage should not be used as a substitute for real exercise time. Just like humans, rabbits need to exercise to stay healthy and happy. Plus, how are you and your new rabbit going to get to know each other if he is in the cage all the time? You would be missing out on the best part of having a rabbit as a pet, getting to know their magical personalities. And I'm sure your rabbit would love to get to know you better as well!

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Double Rabbit Hutch: Get A Double To Avoid Trouble

Rabbits make fine pets, but they are notorious for being wont to reproduce. This is a natural instinct that they possess, and more than one unwitting pet owner has had trouble with unexpected litters. The problem is that newbie pet owners forget about the sex of the animals, and the consequences that may ensue. For the most part, it is a failure on the part of the pet owner to keep the opposite sexes separate. For example, if you have two rabbits, a double rabbit hutch makes a fine long-term habitat, especially if you are unsure of their sexes.

A double rabbit hutch is distinct from two rabbit hutches. You might think to yourself “What difference does that make?” Well, a lot actually. For one thing, a double is more cost-effective in terms of materials and time to build. You can save material on at least one wall section. You can save time by constructing a single, whole roof instead of two smaller ones. Of course, it can also be a bit more difficult to move the hutch as a whole.

For the most part, a double rabbit hutch serves its purpose well. One situation where it might be better to have two separate cages is if you need to quarantine one rabbit. This can be because the rabbit is sick or is being bullied by the other rabbit – as far as rabbit bullying goes, anyway.

Rabbit hutches are usually made of wood and wire mesh. The most common variations are the single and double rabbit hutch, while triples are a bit more uncommon. Some hutches are built to be easily attached or are already built with attached runs, to provide both long-term shelter and exercise area for the rabbits.

So why choose a hutch instead of a cage? Cages are made of mesh or bars on all sides. This provides excellent ventilation and waste management properties, but in fact the openness can be a little too much. Rabbits are docile, shy creatures, and they like being able to hide away, as attested by their natural affinity for burrowing. Hutch is often made of wire mesh on only one side, and has a section made of wood panels. This provides enough ventilation without making the rabbit feel too cold, while providing a more shaded, secluded area to retreat to.

On the other hand, a rabbit cage is more portable, since they are lighter given the fact that most cages are made only of wire mesh. Of course, if you choose a cage for your rabbit, you must keep it indoors because otherwise will be no protection against the elements. Rabbit have fur, but that won’t keep them very warm, and you can forget about drying off quickly.

A Guide on How to Build a Rabbit Hutch Properly


A rabbit is a loveable pet. Your children would love to have it as their pet. Rabbits do not require as much care and attention as dogs or cats. They adapt easily to their environment, so they can easily live indoors or outdoors. It is advisable, however, to keep them as outdoor pets because they fare well better outdoors. To keep them safe and snug, you would have to put them inside a rabbit hutch that is warm and secure. Now, you are probably thinking, “But I don’t know how to build a rabbit hutch!”

You don’t really have to worry about learning how to build a rabbit hutch. It is really quite simple. However, it is important that you draw out your plans first before you start soldering the hutch’s frame. Make sure that you have carefully considered every tiny detail so you will have everything at hand when you start making the hutch.

When drafting your plans on how to build a rabbit hutch, you need to take into consideration the size of your rabbit and of course, its growth. Is your pet an incredibly large or small rabbit? Do you think he or she will likely to grow more in size? You really don’t have to decorate the cage flamboyantly. You just have to make sure that the one-room space your rabbit will occupy is roomy, warm and safe.

So, what do you need? To build a hutch, you need to have the following at hand: wire cloth, eight pieces of wood or metal rods, hinges, staples, woven hardware cloth or wire rolls (with the former being much preferable), formica sheet, and 2x4” stock. For tools, you need to have wire snips, gloves, screw driver, staple gun, coping saw and soldering iron.

Of course, you can always make wooden rabbit hutches but it is better to learn how to build a rabbit hutch that is made of metal. Metal hutches are more superior. They are easy to clean and bad odors don’t stick to metal easily.

When you are learning how to build a rabbit hutch, you need to consider the proper materials to use when building the walls, roof and flooring. For instance, you cannot use the wire mesh for the hutch’s flooring. This will likely harm your rabbit’s paws. The wire cloth is advisable for the flooring. The wire mesh, however, is great for the walls, but then woven hardware cloth is even better.

To construct the frame, you would have to lay out the pieces you need for the frame. Cut these pieces into the desired length. Solder the hutch side walls and then attach them to the front and rear rods in order to create the metal frame. Once you are finished with this, you can then construct the door and attached the same to the frame using screw and hinges. Once you have the frame, you can then roll the wire mesh or woven hardware cloth to create the walls. Tack the corner points and flatten the wire ripples. For the flooring, you would have to cut the 2x4 inches stock and attach them to frame with staples. Place a piece of Formica underneath to catch the rabbit’s wastes.

Having Fun In Rabbit Runs

Rabbits are fine creatures to have as pets. Any loving pet owner would want to provide for the animals’ basic needs. Aside from food, drink, and shelter, rabbits need to exercise too. Otherwise their muscles atrophy and they lose energy and immune system strength. In the end, exercise can only do good for your pet bunnies. But how do you let them get their exercise? You can’t exactly leave them in the open to frolic as they wish – they might get hurt! That is why we have rabbit runs!

Rabbit runs are large enclosures for rabbits. Unlike hutches or cages, these have open bottoms, such that the ground is open. It does have walls and a roof to keep the rabbits from getting out or predators from getting in. After all, just because they are your pets does not mean that the rabbits’ natural predators, like foxes, will stay away.

These structures provide several advantages over the standard rabbit cage or hutch, but they also have some weaknesses. Note for example that the lack of a bottom means that the unit cannot be lifted up with the rabbit inside. Additionally, the lack of a floor suspended above the floor means that feces and urine are in easy reach, making hygiene a bit of a problem.

On the other hand, rabbit runs are wonderful additions. They give your rabbit the freedom to run and play in a spacious yet secured environment. The best place to use these runs is outdoors, on the grass. Your pets can enjoy the natural feeling of a grass surface while getting the sunshine, air, and exercise they need to stay healthy and happy.

Some runs are made to be collapsible, making them easy to store when not in use. This is because runs are not the best for keeping rabbits, and are at best used occasionally. If you want to keep your rabbit safe, then indoor cages or hutches are still the way to go. That way they are protected from harsh weather conditions as well as predators.

The construction of rabbit runs varies. At the very basic level, you can have a circle of wire mesh, staked into the ground and covered with some fine mesh. This is easy to make but is not easy to put away, nor does it provide much protection. You can buy or make wood-reinforced wire-enclosed runs, which provide good protection, but you might experience wood rot if you are not careful with it. Lastly, there are rabbit runs made of jointed metal cage panels. These make assembly simple and quick, and also afford you very good protection for your rabbits. Of course, prices will vary depending on the type and quality of the product you choose. Good accessories to include in these runs are drinking water bottles and shaded areas for cooling off.

Caring For Your First Rabbit

Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets for first time pet owners. In fact, many domestic rabbits are meant to be kept indoors. Domestic rabbits are not like their wild cousins; they do not fair well in extreme temperatures. They also do not react well to predators. Domestic rabbits are very attentive and affectionate. They care about their owners and are very social. Domestic rabbits are meant to be played with and loved by the entire family.

The choice of whether you keep your rabbit in a cage or allow him to roam freely is up to you. If you do opt to keep your rabbit in a cage, you should make sure that he is allowed to get out of his cage every day so he can exercise. When purchasing a cage for your rabbit, you should take into account how big he will be when he is mature and purchase a cage that is five times that size. Your rabbit's cage should be big enough for him to sit up on his hind legs. You should also put cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood in the bottom of wire cages to protect his paws from the wire.

If you decide to allow your pet to roam, make sure that your home is safe. Rabbits like to chew and they don't know the difference between an electrical cord and a stick. Most rabbit owners that do allow their pets to roam limit their wandering to specific areas.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only eat fruits, vegetables and grasses in the wild. You should keep a bowl of commercial rabbit food in your pets eating area. However, you should feed your rabbit hay every day, as well. Many rabbit owners also feed their pets a few fruits and vegetables, such as a carrot or a bit of apple. Always provide something hard and crunchy for your rabbit to gnaw on. This will keep his teeth from becoming overgrown. You should also make sure your rabbit has access to water and that it is changed every day.

Many domesticated rabbits become accustomed to be handled and even enjoy being held. However, you should always use both hands when picking up your rabbit. Place one hand under his chest and the other around his rump. You should never lift your rabbit by his ears.

Rabbits keep themselves clean. However, you should brush rabbits that have long hair regularly to keep their fur from matting. You should trim your rabbit's nails every six weeks. Also, check your bunny's teeth when you trim his nails to be sure they are wearing evenly. If a rabbit's teeth don't meet evenly, they may grow too long and curl, preventing him from eating. If his teeth are growing too long, you will need to ask your vet to trim them on a regular basis.

Choosing A Pet Rabbit Thats Right For You

Having a pet rabbit can be such a rewarding experience. But with all the breeds, sizes and colors, how do you select the rabbit that is just right for you? This article will help you select that perfect rabbit.

Choosing the right rabbit for you and your family can be a very exciting process. There are currently over 40 recognized breeds of rabbits. Many of the breeds have multiple varieties and colors. Rabbits range in size from 2 pounds to over 10 pounds. So the choices are very abundant.

Many breeders give different answers regarding the preferred gender for a pet rabbit. This is compounded by the individual temperament of the rabbit. Often a doe (girl rabbit) that is not spayed, can become territorial was she reaches maturity. She may nip at you when reaching for her or even her food or water dishes. Some does will eliminate that aggression when a familiar face does the feeding on a daily basis. Some does we’ve found to be non-aggressive, and yet others can become territorial towards everybody, but that is very rare. If you do not plan to breed your rabbit, and you want a doe, it is best to have her spayed to help reduce the chances that she may protect her den.

Bucks present a different problem all together. Bucks generally are not aggressive. However, spraying can be a problem. When the buck reaches maturity he may start to spray his urine everywhere to let the whole world know he is ready for a mate. Again, not all bucks will do this, and typically the ones that do, will only do so for a short period of time. This problem can be eliminated by having the buck neutered.

Grooming is another consideration. The wool breeds such as angoras and jersey woolies require extra work in grooming. All rabbits need a good routine of grooming by their caretaker, but the wool breeds require more time because of the nature of their fur type.

The best way to see and find out about rabbits is to attend a rabbit show. At the rabbit show you will find many breeders and most of the breeds of rabbits. To find a show near you visit our calendar page and search for a show in your state.

I would not recommend buying a rabbit without first seeing it, nor would I recommend purchasing a rabbit from a pet store. It would be in your best interest to find a breeder in your area of the breed you think you would like. Visit with that breeder. See what the conditions are in the barn. Ask if you can hold a rabbit. Watch the rabbit’s reaction to their cage being opened. Rabbits that love attention, will immediately come to the door, some will even make happy grunting type noises. Other rabbits will immediately go to the back of the cage. If a rabbit moves to the back its probably not a good rabbit for you.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

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Friday, August 13, 2010

Anggora rabbit

Angora rabbit
The Angora rabbit is a variety of domestic rabbit bred for its long, soft hair. The Angora is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbit, originating in Ankara, Turkey, along with the Angora cat and Angora goat. The rabbits were popular pets with French royalty in the mid 1700s, and spread to other parts of Europe by the end of the century. They first appeared in the United States in the early 1900s. They are bred largely for their long angora wool, which may be removed by shearing, Combing, or plucking (gently pulling loose wool).
There are many individual breeds of Angora rabbits, four of which are ARBA recognized. Such breeds include French, German, Giant, English, Satin, Chinese, Swiss and Finnish, to name a few.

An English Angora rabbit

Coat, appearance, and personality
Angoras are bred mainly for their wool because it is silky and soft. Most are calm and docile but should be handled carefully. Grooming is necessary to prevent the fiber from matting and felting on the rabbit. Because they are prone to hairballs, they should be groomed everyday or every other day. A condition "wool block" is common in angora rabbits and should be treated quickly. [1]Sometimes they are shorn in the summer as the long fur can cause the rabbits to overheat.

Breeds
There are four different ARBA-recognized Angora rabbit breeds: English, French, Giant and Satin. The German Angora is also common, but is not ARBA recognized. It has its own association; the IAGARB.

English
Weight: 2.0-3.5 kg (5-7½ lb).
ARBA-accepted varieties: Ruby Eye White, Pointed White, Self, Shaded, Agouti
Prior to the 1939, there was one breed of "Angora Wooler". In 1939, ARBA reclassified "Angora Wooler" into "English Type" and "French Type". In 1944, ARBA officially separate Angora rabbit into two breeds: English Angora and French Angora.
Rabbits of the angora breed are adorned with "fur," growths of wool on the ears and the entire face except above the nose, and front feet, along with their thick body, and wool. They are gentle in nature, but they are not recommended for those who do not groom their animals. Their fur is very thick and needs to be groomed a lot.
This is the smallest Angora rabbit of the four breeds recognized by ARBA. This breed is more common as a pet because of the facial features that give it a puppy dog or teddy bear look. If the texture of the wool is correct, the maintenance is relatively easy; if the texture of the rabbit is cottony, it requires a great deal of maintenance.
The English angora can be bred to have broken colors, (ex: the rabbit is white with black spots.) This is not accepted by ARBA standards and would lead to a disqualification when showing the rabbit. When showing an English angora rabbit the toe nails should also be only one color, the ears could be folded over at the tips, and the furnishings on the face may cover their eyes.

French

A French Angora rabbit
Weight: 3.5-4.5 kg (7½-10 lb).
ARBA-accepted varieties: Agouti, Pointed White, Self, Shaded, Ticked, Wide Band, and Broken.
This breed has a preponderance of guard hair on the surface, with wool as an undercoat. If the texture is correct, it requires less maintenance than other Angora breeds. Ear tufts are allowed but not preferred by breeders. The ARBA recognizes the same colors as with English Angora, plus broken. The French Angora is one of the largest Angora breeds at 7 1/2 to 10 lbs, with a commercial body type. It differs from the English and German Angora in that it possesses a clean face and front feet with only minor tufting on the rear legs.

German
Weight: 2.0-5.5 kg (5-12 lb).
IAGARB-accepted varieties: all (not subject to ARBA standards)
This breed, while not ARBA recognized, is common in the United States and Canada. It looks much like the Giant Angora, except it almost always comes in ruby-eyed white or albino. Many spinners breed the German Angora with another Angora breed for the bountiful German Angora wool in many beautiful colors. These Angora crosses are called hybrids.
Giant angoras were created in the United States using imported German angoras and also other large breed short haired rabbits. In a certain sense, a Giant is a cross-bred German. Many people confuse the Germans with Giants, which are only ruby eyed white.
A separate club for German angoras exists in the United States, caled the International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders, or IAGARB. Instead of conformation showing, the emphasis is on the wool bearing properties of the rabbit for commercial purposes. The rabbit must meet objective standards and perform well on 90 day shearing tests in order to be officially recognized as a registered German angora rabbit.
IAGARB, unlike ARBA, recognizes colored rabbits and a colored rabbit may achieve merit-based registration if it conforms to the standard and proves its wool bearing ability via the witnessed 90 day shearing tests. IAGARB also recognizes the worth of the rabbit based strictly upon its tests and judging, welcoming all breeds to test for registration status. It does not require breed purity.
Since IAGARB registration is independent of parentage, any colored angora rabbit that meets the registration standards of the club can be registered as a German Angora. The notion that they come only in white is a common misconception, as the rules have only recently been changed to include colored angoras as well as ruby eyed white.

Giant
Weight: 4.5 kg (9½ lb) or larger
ARBA-accepted varieties: Ruby-Eyed White
The Giant Angora is larger than other varieties of Angora, having been created to be an efficient wool rabbit on economical feed and housing. It has three hair types in its wool: underwool, awn fluff, and awn hair.
This is the largest of the four ARBA recognized Angora breeds. It produces more wool than the others in general. This breed may or may not have furnishings on the face and ears. In addition to the underwool and guard hairs, it has an "Awn Fluff" that does not exist in the other three breeds of Angora.

Satin
Weight: 3.0-4.5 (6½-9½ lb).
ARBA-accepted varieties: Agouti, Pointed White, Self, Shaded, Ticked, Wide Band
The Satin Angora is derived from a cross between a Satin and a French Angora. This breed is named for the extremely soft texture of its wool. It has no furnishings on face, ears, or feet, and it is also easy to groom compared to the English variety. Satin Angora's wool is said to be stronger for spinning than other varieties of Angora.
Spinners love the wool and sheen of this breed. However, this breed does not produce as much wool as other breeds of Angora rabbits. This trait is being improved upon by selective breeding. The wool should have a silky texture with good guard hair for ease of maintenance.

Humane Commercial Angora
Angora Rabbits are farmed throughout the world with the bulk of fibre originating in China. Angora rabbit fibre is the third largest animal fibre industry in the world (10 000 ton p.a.), with wool and mohair bigger. Angora is followed by cashemere and alpaca. It is however, the only animal fibre that is produced inhumanely on a commercial scale. Most animal rights organizations such as PETA and Beauty Without Cruelty ban anything made from the fibre of Angora Rabbits because of the following reasons:
1. Caged animals
Angora rabbits are kept their whole lives in small wire cages with either a wire flooring or slatted bamboo. The rabbit has no opportunity to move around at all.
2. "Culling"
When rabbits reach the end of their prime wool producing life span, they get killed and the pelts used for commercial purposes - at very high prices. The pelting industry alone makes Angora Rabbit farming a very lucrative business.
3. Plucking
Angora rabbits on most commercial farms get plucked as opposed to sheared, to ensure long fibre length for spinning purposes. The practice on commercial scale, however is not gentle, where the hair physically gets plucked from the skin.
An alternative to the above does exist, where rabbits are not kept in small cages, are able to run around, play and burrow. The rabbits are not killed and live their lives to natural mature life and are scissor sheared with no stress to the rabbit at all. (See external link of humane breeding)

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Angora Rabbits


The disposition of Angoras is docile and curious. They make good pets as long as you have the time to attend to their special needs.

They will need regular grooming to keep their fur in good condition and hay as a regular part of their diet to help prevent hair balls in their digestive tract.

The Angora Rabbit has the finest, softest of coats. Their fur, which is quite long, is referred to as "wool". This breed of rabbit has been recognized since 1765.

English Angora: This breed is probably the most distinctive since it has long heavy fur that covers it's body so that it is hard to tell the rabbit features like it's ears and face. (It is often mistaken for a small dog). Its body is rounded and so it literally looks like a ball of fluff. The fur on the face is fairly short and if you look closely you will see a doll baby face with large round eyes. There are fluffy tassels of wool lining the ears and the wool is silky and fine which makes it very soft.
Most English angoras are very calm having being bred for good disposition in order to properly groom them. The English may grow to about 8.5 lbs. but is better to show at about 6 lbs.

French Angora: The first picture above shows two French Angoras. They have no wool on their head, face, ears, or front feet. The rest of the body has a slightly coarse wool which is easy to spin. The French Angora's wool is the easiest to care for. It can weigh up to 10.5 lbs, with 9.9 lbs being ideal.

Satin Angora: The Satin Angora's wool looks like shimmering fibers. It does not have wool on the head, face, ears, or front feet. In this respect it is similar to the French Angora. The wool feels lighter and less dense than the other breeds because it is much finer.

Giant Angora: This also is a very distinctive rabbit, mainly because of it's size! For showing they must be completely white. They have the densest wool of all the breeds, with a double undercoat which also gives them the most wool. They should weigh over 9 lbs.

Care and feeding: There are several requirements that Angoras have that most rabbits don't need. They will need regular brushing to keep mats from forming in their fur. A good slicker brush (often used on dogs), can be used for this. Angoras have a special tendency to develop wool block, which is an intestinal problem. The addition of clean hay to their diet regularly will help prevent this problem. Color differences: The Angora Rabbits come in white, black, blue and fawn colors.



Fluffy Angora Rabbit


















"Angora rabbit" is a species I knew of, but had never really seen. Forget real life, I had not even seen a picture of an Angora Rabbit. All I knew is that an Angora rabbit is generally bred for its wool.
The moment I saw his face, I fell in love. Well, I can't lie, I can't lie! I must say- the moment I saw him, but not his face, I fell in love. My imagination ran wild and I imagined sitting on the angora rabbit. Please don't call the animal activists on me. I did nothing wrong, it was so tempting. Look at how fluffy he is.. Mr. Fluffy-puff! If you did not see his face and bum, I assure you, you too would think of this angora rabbit as a fluffy bean-bag. In fact these cute fur balls are sometimes called "Wooly Wabbits"

Friday, July 2, 2010

Fox Proof Rabbit Run: Protection For Pet Rabbits Out in the Open

If you are a pet rabbit owner, then surely you must realize the value of exercise to these cute and quiet critters. Inside cages and hutches, there is little room to move around in, much less exercise. Over time, your pet rabbits can lose muscle strength, as well as become more susceptible to sickness. You could let them loose in your house once in a while, but they do not always get along well with other animals in the home, if you have them. The best solution is to get a fox proof rabbit run.

Rabbit runs are large covered pens designed to be used outdoors. They have walls and roofs, but no floors, so that the ground itself becomes a natural floor upon which the rabbits can have their fun. They provide good security in keeping the rabbits in, but what about keeping predators out? Rabbits, especially domesticated ones, are not exactly good at escaping or fighting off predators. This is where a fox proof rabbit run comes to the fore.

Foxes are the rabbits’ natural predators. They are agile and quite wily. As a pet owner you want to protect your pet rabbits from these dangerous hunters. A fox proof rabbit run is built to withstand the persistence and relative strength of foxes, so you rabbits stay safe and unharmed. These units are heavier and use a stronger type of mesh for the walls, so that the foxes can neither chew open holes or lift the sides and take advantage of the open bottom.

In a rabbit run, you can have more than one rabbit, which is good if you keep several rabbits. Rabbits are also quite social, and they do like being around others of their species. What you do need to watch out for is putting males and females in the same run. The reputation of rabbits as quick reproducers is well-founded, and you might have an unexpected litter if you aren’t careful. Just keep the males and females apart, and you should not have to worry about that.

Rabbit runs are quite large, and given their special design, really are meant for use outdoors. They are not meant to serve as long-term shelter though, and they provide little protection against the elements. These runs are designed to be used during play time for your pets, and are made to be disassembled for compact storage. For long-term housing for rabbits, hutches and cages are your choices.

Cages are generally the smallest and simplest in construction. All of the sides are open though, so your rabbit may feel cold if it is kept in a cage outdoors. Cages are better suited for indoor use. Most cages only accommodate one rabbit.

Hutches feature more solid panels, having only one or two sides open for ventilation, and can be used outdoors. Many hutches also feature enclosed areas where the rabbit can retreat and hide away from light and heat. For large rabbits or multiple individuals, large rabbit hutches can be an economical choice.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Grooming Considerations For Your Pet Rabbit


Rabbits in general have a very similar attitude towards cleanliness as cats do. For this reason it is relatively simple to train them in the use of the litter box. Rabbits spend quite a deal of deal cleaning themselves, maintaining their skin and fur in top shape. However, their personal upkeep by no means exempts pet owners from dedicating some time and effort to this task. Like most other pets, rabbits rely on their owner for an efficient maintenance plan that looks into all areas of hygiene.

One of the most important tasks in rabbit grooming is brushing the coat thoroughly. The more time you spend at this chore, his fur will look and feel that much better. Not to mention the fact that it will bring the pet owner closer to his rabbit. Make it fun, call it brushing the rabbit pet game and go with it. Other advantages of brushing the rabbits hair besides aesthetics, is removing debris and dead strings of hair the pet would otherwise swallow. Like it happens with cats, swallowing hair will form a hair ball in his throat that could prove dangerous to his health. In the event that the hairball, should in fact block the digestive system, the pet owner could face having to submit the rabbit to a surgical procedure costing hundreds of dollars.

When fixing a schedule for brushing the rabbits hear, consider they replace their fur approximately every three months. Be prepared to broom and vacuum all the dead hair left around the house. You will be amazed of how much hair can come out of such a tiny creature. When choosing a brush, remember not to get with hard bristles that may hurt the rabbit’s skin. Their skin is rather delicate; some people prefer wide angle plastic brushes just to go easy on them.

Like with most other pets, when properly taken care off they look fantastic. In order to do this pet owners must be committed to brushing hair regularly. As an alternative you may choose to trim the rabbit’s hair to about one inch in length. This will make your job considerably easier to maintain. In the event that you have little or no experience trimming your rabbit’s hair, don’t be afraid of spending a few dollars with a professional groomer. Make a note of how he does it, and how they handle themselves with the scissors around your rabbit.

A rabbit living in open space and on warm climates will be prone to a lot more physical activity. This activity will generate sweat, which will get cold and dry of on the rabbit. In consequence mats of tangled hair will form which are quite a challenge to remove. For these specific cases try removing the tangled hair with a comb first, before going for the scissors. As a manner of prevention, bathing your rabbit is a must.

Every few weeks your rabbits nails will need to be checked also, and trimmed if necessary. This task, as with many others can easily be done by your veterinarian in case you don’t feel up to the task just yet. Remember to have fun and enjoy the time you spend with your pet, after there is no reason why grooming cannot be a pet game instead of a gruesome chore.


Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Having Fun In Rabbit Runs


Rabbits are fine creatures to have as pets. Any loving pet owner would want to provide for the animals’ basic needs. Aside from food, drink, and shelter, rabbits need to exercise too. Otherwise their muscles atrophy and they lose energy and immune system strength. In the end, exercise can only do good for your pet bunnies. But how do you let them get their exercise? You can’t exactly leave them in the open to frolic as they wish – they might get hurt! That is why we have rabbit runs!

Rabbit runs are large enclosures for rabbits. Unlike hutches or cages, these have open bottoms, such that the ground is open. It does have walls and a roof to keep the rabbits from getting out or predators from getting in. After all, just because they are your pets does not mean that the rabbits’ natural predators, like foxes, will stay away.

These structures provide several advantages over the standard rabbit cage or hutch, but they also have some weaknesses. Note for example that the lack of a bottom means that the unit cannot be lifted up with the rabbit inside. Additionally, the lack of a floor suspended above the floor means that feces and urine are in easy reach, making hygiene a bit of a problem.

On the other hand, rabbit runs are wonderful additions. They give your rabbit the freedom to run and play in a spacious yet secured environment. The best place to use these runs is outdoors, on the grass. Your pets can enjoy the natural feeling of a grass surface while getting the sunshine, air, and exercise they need to stay healthy and happy.

Some runs are made to be collapsible, making them easy to store when not in use. This is because runs are not the best for keeping rabbits, and are at best used occasionally. If you want to keep your rabbit safe, then indoor cages or hutches are still the way to go. That way they are protected from harsh weather conditions as well as predators.

The construction of rabbit runs varies. At the very basic level, you can have a circle of wire mesh, staked into the ground and covered with some fine mesh. This is easy to make but is not easy to put away, nor does it provide much protection. You can buy or make wood-reinforced wire-enclosed runs, which provide good protection, but you might experience wood rot if you are not careful with it. Lastly, there are rabbit runs made of jointed metal cage panels. These make assembly simple and quick, and also afford you very good protection for your rabbits. Of course, prices will vary depending on the type and quality of the product you choose. Good accessories to include in these runs are drinking water bottles and shaded areas for cooling off.

A rabbit run is safe, cost-effective, and a great addition to any pet rabbit owner’s lineup. Choose one today, and give your pets the freedom to run and play in a protected environment!

Monday, June 28, 2010

Caring For Your First Rabbit



Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets for first time pet owners. In fact, many domestic rabbits are meant to be kept indoors. Domestic rabbits are not like their wild cousins; they do not fair well in extreme temperatures. They also do not react well to predators. Domestic rabbits are very attentive and affectionate.They care about their owners and are very social. Domestic rabbits are meant to be played with and loved by the entire family.

The choice of whether you keep your rabbit in a cage or allow him to roam freely is up to you. If you do opt to keep your rabbit in a cage, you should make sure that he is allowed to get out of his cage every day so he can exercise. When purchasing a cage for your rabbit, you should take into account how big he will be when he is mature and purchase a cage that is five times that size. Your rabbit's cage should be big enough for him to sit up on his hind legs. You should also put cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood in the bottom of wire cages to protect his paws from the wire.

If you decide to allow your pet to roam, make sure that your home is safe. Rabbits like to chew and they don't know the difference between an electrical cord and a stick. Most rabbit owners that do allow their pets to roam limit their wandering to specific areas.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only eat fruits, vegetables and grasses in the wild. You should keep a bowl of commercial rabbit food in your pets eating area. However, you should feed your rabbit hay every day, as well. Many rabbit owners also feed their pets a few fruits and vegetables, such as a carrot or a bit of apple. Always provide something hard and crunchy for your rabbit to gnaw on. This will keep his teeth from becoming overgrown. You should also make sure your rabbit has access to water and that it is changed every day.

Many domesticated rabbits become accustomed to be handled and even enjoy being held. However, you should always use both hands when picking up your rabbit. Place one hand under his chest and the other around his rump. You should never lift your rabbit by his ears.


Rabbits keep themselves clean. However, you should brush rabbits that have long hair regularly to keep their fur from matting. You should trim your rabbit's nails every six weeks. Also, check your bunny's teeth when you trim his nails to be sure they are wearing evenly. If a rabbit's teeth don't meet evenly, they may grow too long and curl, preventing him from eating. If his teeth are growing too long, you will need to ask your vet to trim them on a regular basis.

Rabbits do not need to go to the vet for vaccinations, but will benefit from a yearly checkup, just like any other pet. You should also take your rabbit to the vet if he has hair loss, loss of appetite, a runny nose, has difficulty breathing or has any swelling or lumps on his body.



Sunday, June 27, 2010

Rabbit Breed Profile: American Fuzzy Lop

The American Fuzzy Lop is a good choice for those who like a practical pet but don't have a great deal of room. This is a personable small breed that can provide home grown fiber.

Using the Holland Lops that came out fuzzy from a recessive wool gene the American Fuzzy Lop is a somewhat recent addition to the ARBA bred roster, first completing in 1989. They have grown in popularity steadily since
 then due to dedicated breeders and increasing the quality of the breed.

The American Fuzzy Lop today is a short bodied animal with good depth. A wide head with good set to the ears and of course those ears should flop down rather than being erect. The hind feet, head and ears have regular hair with a dense body wool that is at least 2 inches long in order to show. Body type is very important, with 75 points of the standard coming on type.

This is a four class rabbit with show classes for junior and senior bucks and does. For registration the American Fuzzy Lop should be under four pounds with an ideal size of 3 pounds for bucks and 3 pounds for does. They are shown by age more so than other breeds, with juniors showing as juniors until fully six months old.

The American Fuzzy Lop can be blue, broken, chestnut, chinchilla, lynx, opal, squirrel, pointed white, blue eyed white, ruby eyed white, lilac, sable point, Siamese sable, Siamese smoke pearl, tortoise shell, fawn and black and orange in color varieties for show. This gives a range of color.

The small size of the American Fuzzy Lop makes them ideal as pets and for those who enjoy working with fiber this is a chance to grow your own fiber. Like the angora breeds, the wool of the American Fuzzy Lop means they need regular grooming to keep the coat from being matted, although the wool is not as soft or silky as angora wool, making it easier to care for.

This is a curious breed that doesn't take a lot of room and enjoys company. The coat does take some effort to keep it free of debris and tangles. The smaller body size means less feed needed as well as less cage space needed and smaller nest boxes needed.

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Housing Your Rabbit With a Cozy Rabbit Hutch


While your rabbit can roam your house or even a fenced in, covered run during the day, he is going to need a good place to relax and to sleep at night, and one of the best places for him to do this is going to be a rabbit hutch! A rabbit hutch is essentially a type of cage that you can use to house your rabbits and typically, they are made of wood and wire. While some hutches can hold five or six animals, you will find that building one to house one or two is quite simple and is something that the whole family can enjoy. Unlike other animals, which need expensive caging, rabbits do very well in hutches that you can build yourself inside of a weekend.

For the most part, you will find that rabbit hutches consist of a covered portion and a portion that is open to the air. The covered portion might be made of solid plywood or another type of lumber while the open area is made out of wire mesh. The covered portion exists because rabbits, much like most other burrowing mammals, need a dark and cozy place to sleep in. In the wild, rabbits sleep in burrows and in some cases will have earth pressing in on them on three sides. Remember that in many cases, your rabbit will prefer a small covered area that will allow them to feel as though they are being protected.

One thing that you have to look into when you are planning a rabbit hutch is going to be the floor. Some people suggest using a wire mesh for the floor as this can prevent having a rabbit escape through tunneling, but the issue here is that it can be rough on your rabbit’s paws. If you end up deciding on wire floor, be sure that it is well covered with straw. Of course, you can always line the floor with plywood or with vinyl, which is quite easy to clean. Both options is fairly inexpensive and you will discover that it is something that is entirely up to you.


You also might want t look into putting wire mesh on the open area of the hutch. This will allow more circulation of air and it can reduce odor in your rabbit cage. It can also make it easier to check on your rabbit during the course of the day. Remember that when you are building your own rabbit hutch that wood and wire are going to be your best choices for your hutch; plastic might be easier to clean, but it will almost certainly get chewed up as time goes on.

Finally, when you want to make sure that your bunny has a perfect place to live, remember that making your own cage is quite simple. Most people don't realize how easy it is to put together a rabbit hutch, even a fairly large and roomy one. All of the materials are easy to acquire from your local hardware store, so why not devote this weekend to putting together the perfect home for your rabbit?

Friday, June 25, 2010

What Should You Feed Your Pet Rabbit?

One of the most important aspects of properly caring for a pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet.

Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options. Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).

Pellets

Rabbit pellets, available at your local pet store, on the internet, or through mail-order, can be a backbone of your pet's diet. They provide many nutrients in a dense fashion, and they make your job as a feeder so easy. However, you don't need pellets to keep your rabbit healthy. Hay, veggies and the occasional treat of fruits can be an equally or even more effective diet. After all, rabbits in the wild subsist on hay, grass, and veggies ... why should domestic rabbits be any different? On the other hand, pellets are easy and widely available. The choice is really up to you.

If you do decide to feed your rabbit pellets, alfalfa pellets are recommended, as are the excellent rabbit pellets offered by Oxbow (Bunny Basics), Purina or Manna Pro. Feed your rabbit a small amount twice daily (morning and night).

Purchase in small bags if possible (not jumbo size) to ensure that they are as fresh as possible by the time your bunny actually gets to eat them. Pet rabbits are widely known as picky eaters who respond badly to sudden changes in diet, and they may balk if you try to feed them pellets that are spoiled or that have gone rancid or stale.

Veggies

Pellets are a great starting point, but they are only a portion of an overall balanced diet. Rabbits also love to consume vegetables, and many vets recommend giving pet bunnies a small amount of a variety of veggies each day.

Here are some veggies rabbits love:
Alfalfa sprouts
Basil
Brussels sprouts
Carrots
Celery
Clover
Green peppers
Mint
Parsley
Peppermint leaves
Radish tops
Wheat grass

While you may have seen bunnies crunching down on carrot sticks in the cartoons, it's important not to give only carrots or to overfeed too many carrots to your pet. Carrots contain vitamin A, and too much of it can cause problems. On the other hands, vitamin A is essential to good nutrition, so aim for one item that contains it per day. Besides carrots, some veggies that contain vitamin A are:

Beet tops
Broccoli
Endive
Romaine leaves
Dandelion greens

Be careful not to give your rabbit too many vegetables, as they are high in water content and can cause diarrhea or loose stools. If this happens, reduce or eliminate veggies from the diet.

Moreover, don't give your bunny rabbit so many veggies that he starts to eat them only and neglect his pellets. Veggies should be a supplement, not a main dietary staple.

Fruits

While you should give your rabbit more veggies than fruits, some fruits can be a nice treat for your pet. Only give him fresh fruit, never canned (which often has added sugar). Again, give only small amounts, as too much can cause watery stools.

Rabbits tend to like apples, bananas, kiwi, and strawberry. Papaya and pineapple are also great choices, as they both contain papain, which is an enzyme that helps to keep rabbit hairballs at bay.

Be Consistant!

Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.

Therefore, it's important to maintain consistency. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don't run out unexpectedly.

Feeding your rabbit a consistent, balanced and healthy diet is one of the best ways to ensure that your pet rabbit has a long and happy life as your prized companion.

Pet Rabbit Nutrition 101




One of the most important aspects of properly caring for your pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet. Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options. Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).

Hay

Hay is an essential component of a rabbit's healthy diet. One reason why is that feeding a rabbit hay on a daily basis seems to reduce rabbits tendencies to pull out and consume or chew on their own hair, which leads to (sometimes very dangerous) hairballs.

Buy high-quality leafy grass hay, timothy hay or clover hay. Avoid alfalfa hay, as it can sometimes be problematic and has been shown to increase the risk of bladder stones.

FRESH Water

Like all creatures, rabbits need fresh water in order to survive. Change water daily or at least every two days. When you change the water, also wash the water bottle or dish thoroughly to get rid of bacteria.

You may want to use a water bottle that can hang on a cage, as this can reduce the messiness factor. If you prefer to use a bowl, make sure it is sturdy and heavy enough so that your rabbit won't overturn it.

Yogurt?

Although it may sound funny, rabbits can actually benefit from yogurt just the same way that humans do. Yogurt is proven to reduce the bad bacteria in the body, balancing out the good bacteria in the process. Many pet rabbits seem to like yogurt and accept it as a part of a balanced daily diet.

Chew Toys

As you will quickly learn as a new rabbit owner, bunnies love to bite and chew on things. This is actually essential for good dental health, but the trick is to give them good substances to chew on so they won't be tempted to eat up your furniture or other, more dangerous substances, like wires or electrical cords.

A dog's chew toy (on the smaller side) can be a great alternative, one which most rabbits seem to enjoy a great deal. Two more natural options are a large bone from a piece of boiled meat, with the bone marrow taken out, or some apple tree branches (the twigs are great roughage and help keep the bunny's intestines clean).

Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.

Therefore, it's important to be consistant. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don't run out unexpectedly.

The History of the American Rabbit Breeders Association

In the late 1890s the Belgian Hare affair brought a serious touch to the American rabbit world that previously had been pet and perhaps meat rabbits. With serious prices paid for Belgian Hares there was not a national
 organization as with other livestock. In 1910 the National Pet Stock Association was formed.

Seven years later the "Pet" was dropped from the name as it began including not just rabbits and cavies but other small fur bearing animals and later another name change was made to the "National Breeders and Fanciers Association of America."

In 1923 the rabbit fancy began to split into fur breeds and meat breeds. The name of the association was changed to the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association to narrow the focus to just rabbit and cavy owners.

The organization grew and by 1948 an estimated 12,000 members were involved in the organization. Then in 1952 the name was changed to the American Rabbit Breeders Association, although the cavy still today falls within the scope of the association. Six years later a youth division was added to afford adults to compete as well as the youth against their own age and experience level, with a youth division specialty club.

This was changed in 1971 when Oren Reynolds became president and the youth became a part of ARBA that had the same as an adult membership except for that of voting. The ARBA grew and with the increase in members and finances fliers, booklets and the Domestic Rabbits magazine became available to members. Today there is a guidebook, beginner book, year book and the Standard of Perfection that are updated regularly as well as other publications available through ARBA.

The organization today maintains coops and equipment for the national convention shows, it has raised over $150,000 for the research and development fund that contributes to research that benefits rabbits as well as cavy research. There is also a youth scholarship, Hall of Fame library and an active membership that is not just about breeding rabbits. While a large part of the membership do show and breed their choice of dozens of breeds there is also a benefit for pet owners of information.

Although ARBA has been through several name changes in the last 100 years since inception the promotion of the domestic rabbit and cavy has remained. Today ARBA has members from around the world that come to the annual
 convention and show. Rabbits included within the scope of the association are not just fur rabbits or meat rabbits but include breeds that can do both as well as smaller breeds, wooled angora rabbits and fancy marked breeds. The cavy breeds are also distinct and compete at the national convention.

For many reasons owners of all types of rabbits can benefit from information available from ARBA. Join today!

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Giant Angora Rabbit Profile

Grow Your Own Sweater
The largest of the angora rabbits, the Giant Angora is but one color from accepted show standards. However, a properly groomed ruby eyed white Giant Angora is a rabbit to behold.

As a large breed this is a six class breed, with classes for junior, intermediate and senior bucks and does. With a minimum adult weight of 9 pounds for bucks and 10 pounds for does, this is more than a fluffy rabbit.
They should be a commercial type, developed for large body size as well as commercially housed fiber production.

As a wooled breed the Giant Angora provides a heavenly fleece to be used in a variety of woolen goods. There are three coats in the structure of a Giant Angora fleece. The undercoat, awn fluff and the longest guard hairs make up a fleece that should reflect good density. If you are looking for a practical pet and enjoy fiber arts, the Giant Angora may be the rabbit for you.

Of course that luxurious wool needs care long before it comes time to make a scarf with it. The Giant Angora should be kept free of contamination of the wool, keeping shavings, hay and other debris from being embedded in the coat. Like all angora breeds they need regular grooming and this is a breed that is often sheared, as they are less likely to shed the coat than some other Angora breeds. Regular grooming keeps the rabbit from developing mats and creating health problems that can arise from lack of maintenance of the coat. Each of the angora breeds has a unique feel to the coat, known in the rabbit world as texture.

Due to the standard issuing the wool quality this is a major factor in preparation of a Giant Angora for show. However, that also can mean that when properly cared for and with that wool maintained this is a breed that can show longer than the shorter coated breeds.

As a rule Angoras are good rabbits to handle, owing to the time spent with them and developing rabbits for wool and temperament to take the grooming needed to keep that wool in good condition.

Additional care is needed to keep the rabbits from wool block as well as removing the loose fiber from the cages regularly. With no maximum weight limit the Giant Angora is a breed that catches the eye not only for
their beautifully groomed coat but for their large size as well.

The Giant Angora takes a dedicated owner but the wool produced can be done for a lifetime, providing a benefit that doesn't mean culling the best animals. The National Angora Rabbit Breeders and ARBA are both very recommended if you are looking at keeping this large and beautiful breed.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Satin Angora Breed Profile

Satin Angoras are distinctive in the satinized sheen to their wool. Although all of the angora types are distinctive they share a need for regular grooming to keep the coat up. With a fiber that is lighter and warmer
 than wool there is a special texture to the wool of these rabbits as well as a natural sheen that is unlike any other Angora.

The Satin Angora has no wool on the face, ears or feet, leaving a luxurious coat on the body with a soft texture. The beautiful sheen is compromised by somewhat less production of wool than other angora breeds, but as breeders select and breed for heavier wool this is likely to change. As the emphasis is put on quantity as well as quality of wool the resulting offspring should produce more wool per rabbit.

The Satin Angora is approved to show in agouti, pointed white, self, shaded, ticked and wide band varieties. From a show standpoint they are shown as white and colored and are a four class breed. This allows junior and senior bucks and does to compete based on age and sex.

Although the wool is the crowning glory of the Satin Angora there should be more than just wool. With an accepted range of 6 to 9 pounds in size and ideally 8 pounds this is a good breed for those with limited room as well as to keep for spinning wool at home. Where you probably won't be able to keep a couple sheep as pets, a few angora rabbits are quiet and give a beautiful home grown fiber.

Aside from the needed grooming it's important to get your hands on these rabbits on a regular basis to maintain good condition. The wool can cover up a rabbit that might be too thin or too fat and not only is this bad for the rabbit but purely from a wool standpoint, quality will suffer if the rabbit is not in the best of condition. Regular grooming as well as outstanding feed and management are needed to keep these rabbits in the best of care.

The satin sheen should carry not only through a good texture on the wool but on the shorter hair too on the head and feet, with the distinct shine that indicates a good satin coat. If you are starting in angoras it pays to join ARBA, the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club and email lists about the rabbits and the fiber.

Start with good quality Satin Angoras and keep them in good condition. While breeding to the standard is good it is always good to breed for function too and for the angoras this means wool. The Satin Angora is a
 beautiful rabbit with a distinctive angora coat. Give them a look!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

French Angora Rabbit Breed Profile

The French Angora has a long history as a functional rabbit with a history of being raised commercially in Europe for their wool. Today this feature is still prized among those that keep these rabbits not only for fiber
but also for showing.

As a four class breed shown grouped by age of junior and senior and sex as buck or doe, the French Angora is shown as white or colored and available as agouti, broken, pointed white, self, shaded, ticked and wide band varieties. They are a medium sized breed with a range accepted of 7 to 10 pounds and an ideal size for bucks and does of 8 pounds.

The wool of the French angora is somewhat coarser than other breeds and ideally 2 to 3 inches long. The feet and legs are furred to the first joint and they might have tufts on the ears but not nearly as noticeable as on the English Angora.

Like the other angora breeds, the French Angora needs regular grooming to keep the fleece tangle and mat free. In the French Angora they will shed and extra grooming during this time "plucks" the shed fiber without hurting the rabbit in any way. This is also true of the Satin Angora, of which the French Angora was used to develop.

Sometimes breeders will clip the baby coat of young rabbits at 6-8 weeks then again at 20 weeks and from there follow the harvesting of wool during the natural shedding process. There is then a variety from the baby wool to the adult fiber in density.

Of course if you clip babies you must insure that they stay warm enough to maintain condition and growth as well as growing another coat. A good, tangle free coat means a higher quality fiber.

For all the work involved in keeping angoras there is another competition that those with wooly breeds can take part in aside from showing at ARBA shows and taking part in breed club activities. There is also fiber festivals in many parts of the country that judge on the fiber itself. For the angora breeder this can be an important selection factor to increase your fiber quality not only from a competition standpoint for fiber but also on your rabbits.

The French Angora can be a handspinner's dream animal, taking not a great deal of room or feed and supplying home grown fiber wherever you are. It gives a different appreciation of the work that goes into an angora
sweater when you grow it from birth, spin it into yarn, knit it into something to wear and get compliments for it.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Angora Rabbits: Quiet, Fluffy Pets with Good Hair for Spinning

Angora rabbits are very fluffy rabbits with hair that is silky and smooth. Angora rabbits can grow so much hair that they can't see since the hair is in front of their eyes. The hair of the Angora rabbit can be spun
 into yarn that can be made into garments. Angora rabbits make good quiet pets but since they have the long soft hair they need to be groomed more then a short haired rabbit.

Angora rabbits should be groomed every other day to keep the hair untangled. The hair of the angora rabbits will fly off the rabbit easy. When you groom an angora rabbit you can gently pull the hair off of the rabbit or you can brush the rabbit to remove the extra hair. When you pull the wool off of the Angora rabbit it is called plucking. It is best to start grooming an angora rabbit when it is only weeks old so that you can train the rabbit to like being groomed. During the warm summer months you can shear the Angora rabbit like you would a sheep to get the hair off of the rabbit. The hair on an angora rabbit is too hot to let it stay on the rabbit during the heat of the summer.

If you spin the angora hair into yarn you can put the rabbit down next to where you are spinning and pull the hair from the Angora rabbit as you spin the hair into yarn. You can also mix the angora hair in with some wool and the yarn to spin will be stronger and less fly away. You can mix the angora hair with the wool by carding them together on the same cards at the same time.

Angora rabbits can be nice quiet pets that will sit on your lap and let you pet them. The soft hair of the Angora rabbit will fly around when you pet the rabbit. An angora rabbit is not a good pet if you are someone who has allergies.

Angora rabbits are comical looking pets that are nice to hold and pet. An Angora rabbit looks much like a big puff ball. An Angora rabbit is a quiet peaceful pet that is not aggressive. You can keep Angora rabbits as a pet and you can use the hair they produce for yarn. You can read more about Angora rabbits at

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

How to Shear Wool from an Angora Rabbit

There are two types of angora rabbit hair: the kind that is able to be plucked and the kind that isn't. Many angora owners find they are able to pluck the hair from their rabbit with ease and little fuss from the
rabbit. This plucking is accomplished by simply pulling on a few strands of wool at a time until the rabbit has been freed of all excess wool. Some angoras, mainly of the German and Giant varieties, are not able to be plucked so easily and other methods of removing the wool is necessary to maintain the health of the rabbit.

Shearing is my method of choice and while it can be a daunting task, there are a few easy steps that can help you to accomplish this chore with relatively little headache.

Firstly, if you intend to use the wool later, make sure the rabbit's fur is long enough. Wool that is too short will not spin properly and will make a weak yarn. If, however, you are keeping the wool short for grooming and not for using, then the length of the wool is not of great significance to you for purposes of shearing.

Begin by letting your rabbit hop around and get enough exercise so that he has a chance to work out some energy and calm down a bit. Use this time to prepare your setting and equipment. You will need sharp scissors, a damp washrag, a comb or brush used on the rabbit regularly, a small trashcan with a fresh liner, and something to collect the wool in, if you are planning on keeping it. Once the rabbit has settled down somewhere, preferably laying down, part the hair down the center of the back from the shoulder blades to about the middle of the back. From the shoulder and working your way back, hold one side of the part down with your non-dominant hand, slide the scissors in just under the part you've made, and cut the hair. This method of trimming will allow you to get very close to the skin without cutting the rabbit's delicate skin. Continue trimming the rabbit using this method for the entire back and rump of the rabbit. Wool from this area is the only wool I save as the rest has a tendency to get dirty or knot up too badly for use.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Is a Rabbit the Right Pet for Your Family?

What is Required of You as a Rabbit Owner to Ensure a Healthy Pet

Rabbits are synonymous with Easter, however owning a rabbit is a year-round commitment. While a cage or hutch contains them, rabbits need daily interaction for both physical and mental health purposes. When deciding

whether or not a rabbit is the right kind of pet for your family, here are some things to consider:

Longevity - A rabbit can live anywhere from three to six years. It is not uncommon for many rabbits to live beyond six years, however, owning an older rabbit means that it will have to be cleaned more often, as sometimes it is harder for older rabbits to lift themselves up when they use the bathroom. Another consideration of having a rabbit that is older would be the need to constantly evaluate the feet and ears. An older rabbit is not as agile as a younger one; therefore, feet need to be examined to check for any sore hocks. In addition, a rabbit will not clean herself as good as when she was younger and ears will need to be inspected to check for ear mites.

Diet - A rabbit will always need fresh water, rabbit pellets and hay. The hay is necessary to help facilitate the wearing down of the rabbit's constantly growing teeth. Hay also helps keep the gut active and prevents many blockages due to the ingestion of fur and other substances. Fruits and vegetables are treats for rabbits and include bananas, carrots, leaf lettuce and apples. These, however, should only compensate for 10%, at most, of the rabbit's total diet.

Grooming - A rabbit will need its coat groomed as often as possible. Breeds like the Angora or Jersey Wooly will need to be groomed at least daily. Coats need to be checked for matting and underneath the scut (tail) for any residue of wastes that may have accumulated on the rabbit's coat. Another part of grooming is to inspect your rabbit from head to toe. Ears need to be checked for mites, teeth need to be inspected for broken teeth or malocclusion, and nails may need a trim. Hind feet are susceptible to sore hocks and will need an inspection to make sure fur is present, or a sore hock is healing properly.

Vet care - While rabbits do not require the usual shots like cats and dogs do, they still need to go to the vet. Find a veterinarian that has experience with treating rabbits. Rabbits can be spayed and neutered; which

is a good idea if you are planning on keeping more than one rabbit. Even two males should be neutered, as they will get along better, however two sisters from the same litter will usually get along peacefully and may not require spaying.

Rabbits' systems are very fragile. Once a rabbit is sick it will immediately require vet care, so be sure to have your vet already lined up and make a visit so he/she can become acquainted with your bunny. If your rabbit is injured or sick, it will grind its teeth very loudly, scream, or try to run off and be by itself. This is often accompanied by a loss of appetite. Should this happen, carefully wrap your rabbit in a towel and immediately call your vet.

Only you can decide if a pet rabbit is right for your family, but if you feel you are in doubt, wait and contact some local rabbit rescue groups. They may have an education program available to let you "try out" what it is like to own a rabbit. Also, if you have other pets, take them into consideration when you are contemplating adopting a bunny. You vet can provide you with advice about integrating your rabbit into the family, which includes an introduction to the other furry members of your household. Remember though: never bring home a bunny until you are absolutely ready to care for it for the remainder of its life.

Friday, June 11, 2010

English Angora Rabbit: Isn't He Fluffy?

The Fluffy Angora Rabbit Makes a Very Good Pet. Find Out About the 4 Types of Angora Rabbits. They Are the Cutest Pets, Ever!


"Angora rabbit" is a species I knew of, but had never really seen. Forget real life, I had not even seen a picture of an Angora Rabbit. All I knew is that an Angora rabbit is generally bred for its wool.

Browsing the internet as I usually do, I came across an article on some unusual pets and there he/she was (let's assume it is a he to make this article simpler to write).

The moment I saw his face, I fell in love. Well, I can't lie, I can't lie! I must say- the moment I saw him, but not his face, I fell in love. My imagination ran wild and I imagined sitting on the angora rabbit. Please don't call the animal activists on me. I did nothing wrong, it was so tempting. Look at how fluffy he is.. Mr. Fluffy-puff! If you did not see his face and bum, I assure you, you too would think of this angora rabbit as a fluffy bean-bag. In fact these cute fur balls are sometimes called "Wooly Wabbits".(That is a name I did not make up.)

I don't understand how an angora rabbit can see with all that fluff.

There are 4 main types of Angora rabbits.

1- English Angora rabbit: Some would say these are the cutest of the Angora rabbits, but I love them all. This kind of Angora rabbit is sometimes confused with a dog! Their face and floppy ears are covered with all that fluff and then it becomes a case of mistaken identity. These are the smallest breed of the four Angora rabbits. They weigh 5 to 7.5 pounds at maturity.

2- French Angora rabbit: French Angora rabbits look like regular rabbits and don't have fluff on their face, ears and head. They weigh 8 to 10 pounds at maturity.

3- Satin Angora rabbit: These angora rabbits have wool that shines like satin. Just like the French Angora rabbits, these too don't have wool on their ears, face and head. The ideal weight of a matured Satin Angora rabbit is around 8 pounds.

4- German or Giant Angora rabbit: German/Giant Angora rabbits have the most dense wool. These Angora rabbits can reach a maturity weight from between 9 to12 pounds.

These calm and docile Angora rabbits generally shed their wool about 3-4 times a year. The only exception would be the German Angora rabbit, which needs to be sheared.