Monday, February 15, 2010



Type .......... 25
Main .......... 30
Coat .......... 25
Condition ..... 5
Colour ........15
Total .......................100

1- TYPE Cobby well rounded body, head bold with well developed muzzle. Legs of medium length and not too fine in bone. Stance to be high enough to show full chest and mane.

EARS - Not to exceed 3 inches in length. Well covered buyt not furnished. Carried erect.
EYES - Bold and bright, eyes of white, red or blue, in all other colours as per Colour Standard .

2 - MANE The mane should be between 2-3 inches in length to form a full circle around the head, extending to a 'V' at the back of the neck falling into a fringe between the ears. Noticeably longer hair on the cheeks and chest

3 - COAT The coat to be dense of medium length, roll back and even all over body in Adults. Small amount of extended fur around flanks permissible on under five months exhibits, but not desired

4 - COLOUR All colours as long as they conform to a recognised colour and pattern

5 - CONDITION The exhibit should be in a perfect state of health and bodily condition, free from all soiling, particularly on feet, ears and genital parts. The coat should reflect the overall good health of the exhibit, which should appear alert and vigorous.
WEIGHT : 3lbs - 3lbs 12oz, 1.7 kgs

FAULTS : Woolly furnishings, head too fine, ears too long, poor colour, long in body. Excessive fur on flanks.


Lionhead Working Standard
Gibbons activated in 2007
Variety: Chestnut Agouti, Ruby Eyed White, Sable Point, Siamese Sable, Tortoise (black only)


GENERAL TYPE.......................................................................................................40



Senior Buck & Does - 6 months of age and over, not over 3-3/4 pounds.(3 lbs 12 oz) Ideal weight 3-1/2 pounds.

Junior Bucks & Does- Under 6 months of age, not over 3-1/4 pounds.( 3 lbs 4 oz)
Minimum weight 1 5/8 pounds ( 1 lb 11 oz).

NOTE: Juniors which exceed maximum weight limits may be shown in higher age classifications.
No animal may be shown in a lower age classification than its true age.


Body- Points 25: The body is to be short, compact and well rounded. The shoulders and chest are to be broad and well
filled, with broad shoulders matching hindquarters. The depth at the shoulders should round back to hindquarters of slightly less depth, on an ideally posed animal. The hindquarters are to be broad, deep, and rounded. The lower hips should be well filled. They should have a high head mount. Legs should be of medium length and medium bone, relative to the size of the animal. Stance is to be high enough to show full chest and mane.


Faults- Long, narrow body; flatness over shoulders or hips; chopped off or undercut hindquarters; any specimen that shows raciness; low head set.

HEAD - Points 10: The head should be bold, with good width between the eyes. The muzzle should be well filled. The head should be attached to the body with a high head mount and no visible neck. The should be a slight roundness between the eyes, but the head is not to be round from all directions. Eyes should be bright
and bold. Eye color to be as described in the individual variety.

Faults- A long, narrow head; pointed or narrow muzzle, low headset.

EARS- Points 5: Ears are to be short, well set on top of head, erect, well furred, of good substance, and with a strong ear base. They are to be rounded at he tips. Ears should balance with the head and body. When relaxed ears will be carries in a slight "V".

Faults- Ears that are pointed, lack furring, or do not balnce with the body

Disqualifications from Competetion - Ears that exceed 3-1/2 inches in length, wool more then halfway up the ear


MANE-Points 30: The mane is to be wool. It should be a strong, wavy wool with a guard hair tip. Crimping of the wool is especially evident in the junior animals. The prominent portion of the mane (top and sides near the ears) should be at least
2 inches in length on senior animals. The mane is to form a full circle around the head, extending to a "V" at the back of the neck. The wool of the mane should be dense enough to make the mane full and prominent. It may fall into a fringe between
the ears or form a wool cap across the brow. Any wool in the front of the ears should enhance the prominence of the mane, but not obscure the eye. The face below the wool cap should be clean of wool. The side trimmings and chest may be noticeably longer.

Faults - A mane that is thin in appearance, has gaps; a gradual change on the forehead between the eyes and ears from normal fur to the wool of the mane.

Disqualifications from Competition - Breaks in the mane. A mane that consists of normal fur instead of wool. Wool longer than 1 inch between the eyes.

COAT- Points 15: (Rollback) The fur should be soft, dense, of medium length, and prime. It should show lots of life and glossiness. Ideally the saddle, flanks, and rump of the animal should be clean of wool. Transition wool is allowed on the hips
of juniors and seniors.
Transition wool is defined as a significantly shorter wool on the hips and face. Transition wool is not to exceed 2 inches.

Faults - Fur that is long, thin, or poor in texture; excessive wool on the flanks of a junior animal.

Disqualifications from Competetion - Wool across the saddle on junior or senior animals. Lack of a distinct break between the wool of the mane and any wool on the hip.

COLOR - Points 10: The fur and eye color is to be as described under each variety.

CONDITION - Points 5: As per ARBA definition.

image on right shows correct stance
ideal no flank wool

Judging is to be by classes of sex and age in each variety, with a Best and Best Opposite Sex of each variety
being selected. The Best of Breed and Best Opposite Sex are to be selected from the BOV and BOSV.

CHESTNUT AGOUTI -The surface color on the top sides of the body is to be a light brown, ticked with black. The intermediate band is to be a well defined orange over a dark slate-blue undercolor. The chest is to be a light cream or off white over a dark slate-blue undercolor. The undercolor of the belly is to be slate blue. The top of the tail is to be black, sparsely ticked with light brown, over a dark slate-blue undercolor. The nape of the neck is to be orange, with ears laced in black. Eyes - brown.

Faults: Animals that are too light in the color of the intermediary band or undercolor or are to light or dark in surface color

RUBY EYED WHITE - Color is to be a pure white and uniform throughout. Eyes - Pink.

SABLE POINT - Color on the nose, ears, feet legs and tail is to be a rich sepia brown color. The marking color is to shade rapidly to a brown body color. The entire upper body is to be creamy brown color, with a lighter almost white undercolor. A slightly deeper body color may occur along the saddle but is not desirable. The ideal is an animal whose surface color is
light enough to give good contrast with the point color. Eyes - Brown

Faults: Blotchy surface color on body: markings too light to provide good contrast with the body.

SIAMESE SABLE - The surface color is to be a rich sepia brown on the head, ears, back, outside of legs, and top of the tail. The surface color will fade to a lighter sepia on the sides, chest, belly, inside of legs, and underside of the tail. Dark face color is to fade from the eyes to the jaws and all blending of color is to be gradual and free from blotched or streaks. The undercolor will be slightly lighter than the surface color. Eyes - brown.

Faults: fault animals that have streaks, blotched or poor color blending, Scattered white hairs, or lack of darker color in the loin area is a fault

TORTOISE - The surface of the body is to be a rusty orange color on the loin, blending with a gray-black on the sides, rump, belly, feet, and tail. The color is to extend well down the hair shaft to an off-white under-color. Eyes - Brown

Faults - Stray white hairs; underside of tail light in color.


WHY IS MY LIONHEAD THAT COLOR? Or how do I get the presentation/showable colors????

Rabbit Genetics are fairly easy to understand, if you just keep it basic and do not try to make it more complicated then it is. Keeping it basic is all I intend to do in this short space.

All genes are paired in twos - remember high school biology?



So there are only two colors of rabbits BLACK and BROWN (Some breeds call brown ones CHOCOLATE) all the other colors are just versions of those two.

Remember just two - black and brown.
The code for that gene spot is "b"
a capital B = Black; a lower case b = brown.
A non-agouti rabbit is called a SELF.

In genetics the dominate gene is always the capital letter. So black is always dominate over brown. YOU WILL NEVER GET A BLACK RABBIT OUT OF TWO BROWN ONES. (I do not care what the pedigree someone sold you said, it just isn’t so.)

The letter "A" is used for agouti or banded hair shaft.
Small a is non-agouti or self.
Small at is a Tan Pattern rabbit. A is dominate over at and plain small a.
Small at dominates over small a.
Agouti is a pattern NOT a color. Agoutis have a light belly and underside of the tail. They have
light markings around the eyes, insides of ears, by the nostrils, on the underside of jowls. They will
have light color on the inside edges of legs and tops of the toes.

Chestnut Agouti

On an Agouti the main body color has "ring color" That means when you blow softly into the coat it will fall open and show you at least three bands of distinct colors. The basic three bands are: the undercolor (or band of color at the skin), an intermediate band (the center band of color which creates the base color of the rabbit) and a surface band (the band on the outer edge which makes the ticking which overlays the base color of an Agouti rabbit). Agouti pattern rabbits often also show a heavy ticking of surface band color on the top of the tail and edges of the ears. The nape of the neck is also a very pale shade of the body color.

Here are examples of Agouti pattern Lionheads
(if you move the cursor over each one you will see the Self (non-agouti version of the color)

Self - Black

Self - Siamese Sable

Agouti - FAWN
Self - Tortoise

Agouti - OPAL
Self - Blue

Self - Smoke Pearl

Self - Sable Point

- TAN PATTERN. Small at is a Tan Pattern rabbit. A is dominate over at and at is dominate over plain small a.

The Tan Pattern group have markings much like Agoutis. They have a light belly and underside of the tail. They have light markings around the eyes, insides of ears, by the nostrils, on the underside of jowls. They will have light color on the inside edges of legs and tops of the toes. THEY DO NOT HAVE RING COLOR. They are basically a self (solid colored rabbit) with the Tan Pattern marking pattern. They do carry silver or orange ticking that runs up the lower sides and around the rump. This not as noticeable on Lionheads as that is where the flank wool is carried.

Otter Variety - Tan Pattern, rabbits should carry a Tan overlay or edging on the silver markings. Otter is the proper name when you are talking about non-shaded members of the Tan Pattern Group.

Marten Tan Pattern rabbits have beautiful pure silver/white marking and should carry NO trace of Tan or Orange. (If you see Tan on your Marten is is simply a BAD Otter). Marten is the proper name for rabbits in the Tan Pattern group that are shadeds.

Note Tan overlay on this Otter baby Lionhead at left.

Below are some examples of Tan Pattern Lionheads



FOX (Tortoise Otter)



If you want the presentation/showable colors you must breed out at (Tan Pattern).

Rabbits that carry B with A are Chestnut Agouti or Castor (depends on breed name). Remember all genes come in pairs and only one gene can dominate in any pair so AA BB is Chestnut but Aa BB; AA Bb; Aa Bb are also Chestnut.

BUT RE CAREFUL - of these Chestnut rabbits, the two with small b will make Chocolate Agouti if breed together. The Aa Bb and Aa BB rabbits could have self colored bunnies.


If you want the presentation/showable colors you must breed out b (brown).

The letter "D" represents the depth of the color.
D = dark color
d= dilute color.
Here are some examples - again move the cursor over the photo to see the dilute version appear

Chestnut becomes Opal
Black becomes Blue
Chocolate becomes Lilac

So - AA BB dd is a dilute Chestnut which is Opal. Change one of the small ds to a large D and you are back to a Chestnut. If you change the AA to aa and get aa BB dd you have a Blue (gray) bunny - a self Black dilute.

Lionhead Colors


some family members:
Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac, Tortoise
For show only includes Ruby Eye White (Albino) and Blue Eyed White


some family members:
SELFS - Siamese Sable, Smoke Pearl, Sable Point
AGOUTIS - Chinchilla, Squirrel, Frosted Pearl
TAN PATTERN - Sable Marten, Smoke Pearl Marten, Sable Point Marten
Tortoise is in this group for SHOW proposes ONLY


some family members:
Chestnut, Opal, Chocolate Agouti, Red
SHADEDS - Chinchilla, Squirrel, Frosted Pearl


some family members:
SELFS - Tortoise, Blue Tortoise
AGOUTIS - Red, Orange, Golden, Fawn, Frosted Pearl
TAN PATTERN - Sable Point Marten, Fox (Tortoise Otter)
SHADEDS - Sable Point, Pearl Point


some family members:
Black Otter, Blue Otter, Chocolate Otter, Lilac Otter, Tan
SHADEDS - Sable Marten, Sable Point Marten, Smoke Pearl Marten


family members:
Bi-Color (white and one other color)
(white and two other colors)


family members:
Blue Eyed White,
Vennia Sport - miss-marks


family members:
Japanese, Magpie
BROKENS - Tri-Color

sometimes call Himalayan or Californian

family members:
Black, Blue, Chocolate and Lilac SELF Pointed Whites


here are some differences of opinions on exactly where and just how the beautiful LIONHEAD RABBIT originated. Below are two most commonly held theories/opinions.
The first thought is they originated in Belgium in a litter of bunnies that was the result of the crossbreeding of the Swiss Fox and a Belgian Dwarf. Then crosses to a smaller wool type breed was also included in the crossbreeding. Some sources list the Jersey Wooly but its probably the Dwarf Angora (in the USA we have no Dwarf Angora so the name Jersey Wooly was added here) Later the breed was imported into England where continued crossbreeding of small breed rabbits and additional wool breeds were made. This crossbreeding made in Europe and in England created the current EUROPEAN LIONHEAD RABBIT.
The another opinion is that it did not originate in Belgium and that the Jersey Wooly had nothing to do with the
making of the Lionhead breed. In this opinion it is thought that when European breeders were working on the
Dwarf Angora the Lionhead mutation occurred in a litter of bunnies and was accidentally spread throughout the
Dwarf Angora Breed. This gene did create a problem for the Dwarf Angora breed as it restricted the wool on the
back and sides of the rabbit. In Europe a number of attempts were made to set the trait and establish a new
breed often called the Tete De Lion. All these attempts failed except for a small "pet market".

What we do know is that the Lionhead mutation is the first major mutation in rabbits since the early 1900's when
Satin fur first appeared in a litter of Havana's. The gene that causes the mane seems to be a dominant mutation
which means that only one parent is required to have the "mane gene" to produce more LIONHEADS. In that way
it is unlike any of the other fur mutations in rabbits which have all been recessive genes. This also makes the
Lionhead Rabbit unlike any of the other "new breeds" of recent years in that it cannot be recreated using other breeds.

Sometime during the early years, the LOP EARED gene was added to the mix, creating
the Lop Eared Lionhead. In Europe, both versions of Lionheads - lop eared and erect
eared - are currently being bred. In February of 2002 , the British Rabbit Council official
recognized the erect eared version of the Lionhead Rabbit.
When the
breed was recognized in England by the British Rabbit Council approved the Lionhead
Rabbit in all recognized colors (sixty approved colors) and it is approved in all marked
patterns and their varieties. ,


LIONHEAD RABBITS have been imported into the United States (mostly from Europe) since 1999. In gathering information it appears the Lionhead Rabbit was first brought into Northern Minnesota by JoAnne Statler, soon she was joined by several other Minnesota breeders. About the same time or shortly after Tom Coats of Maryland brought back a small number of Lionheads with him after spending time in England. Additional breeders then began larger importations of Lionheads mostly from England but some also came form Sweden. Since there were so few Lionheads in the United States and many lack any uniform type or size some breeders began to cross the Lionhead Rabbit to various other small breeds. A number of breeds where used, including Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite, Polish, Holland Lop, and Florida Whites. Since then other breeders, throughout the country have added Jersey Wooly, Dutch, Mini Rex, American Fuzzy Lop, and even New Zealands to the breeds used for hybridization. This was done not only a way to broaden the gene pool, but to correct some of the differences between the European Standard and the United States Proposed Standard. When crossbreeding, hopefully breeders are only using quality rabbits to improve the breed where they feel it needs improvement. These type of breeding programs require experience and should be very selective type programs which cull heavily. Whether you crossbreed your Lionhead Rabbits or keep them pure it is very obvious this little breed will go far in the United States.

Here in the UNITED STATES there are number of certificates of development.
Presently all are for the erect eared version of the LIONHEAD RABBIT.
The current active COD is held by Gail Gibbons of Kansas
The Gibbons COD has 5 colors on in
Chestnut Agouti, Tortoise (in Black only) , Siamese Sable, Sable Point
and Ruby Eyed White.

The first attempt to get the breed recognized n the United States was made by Arden Wetzel of Minnesota who held the first COD
for the breed. He made his first presentation attempt in 2004 during the ARBA Convention held in Rhode Island. The attempt in 2004 failed in all five colors. He then made a second attempt in 2005 at the ARBA Convention in Indiana. Arden was successful in Tortoise in 2005 which meant the breed moved forward in Tortoise only. After unsuccessful attempts in 2006 and 2007 presentation rights fell to Gail Gibbons. Who will begin the process all over again in 2008

The current PURPOSED WORKING STANDARD includes LIONHEADS in five colors (the maximum allowed by
the ARBA for a new breed). It is for an erect eared rabbit with a top weight on seniors will be 3 ¾ pounds.

Since, overseas, Lionhead Rabbits are currently being bred in so many colors not recognized by the ARBA,
time and care is being taken to prepare this breed for acceptance under the more stringent requirements of
our parent breed organization.

The North American Lionhead Rabbit Club
was founded on September 29th 2001 at the Minnesota State Rabbit Breeders Association State Show held in Elk River, Minnesota. I strongly encourage anyone interested in the LIONHEAD RABBIT breed to join, so that you may learn more about this exciting new breed.

When you join, you will be given:
*- an Official Guide Book that contains information on the Lionhead Rabbit,
* - a membership card,
* - a subscription to a quarterly newsletter called the Mane Musings keeping you
informed on all the updates in regards to the development of the Lionhead Rabbit.


LIONHEAD RABBITS can be shown at ARBA rabbit shows as an exhibition breed. They can be shown under the PURPOSED WORKING STANDARD (Read the Standard for the Lionhead Rabbit). only if the entry is accepted by the Show Secretary for each show.

Once the breed has passed one showing with the ARBA at a Convention, then they must
be allowed to be exhibited at ARBA shows. To exhibit your LIONHEAD, just print a copy
of the PROPOSED WORKING STANDARD (without any embellishment with advertising or
identification of your rabbitry) and give it to the Show Secretary along with your entry.

The LIONHEAD RABBIT tends to be very friendly, enjoying human contact.
They are easy to handle and if brought into the home at a young age the
become very used to human contact and will make excellent pets.

They are healthy overall as a breed and most are easy keepers. They do tend
toward the dirty bottoms found on baby lops and other breeds with slightly long
coats, due to their fur being a longer rollback coat much like the lop breeds.

The bunnies with manes (not all purebreds will necessarily have manes *
see the explanation about the mane gene ) will begin to show the mane by
three weeks old. If they do not carry two genes for the mane they are born
looking like any other bunny until that age when the mane begins to bloom.

Bunnies that have 2 genes for the mane will look very different from a normal
fured bunny. They have extensive areas that have NO fur or hair coloring at all
at birth. These areas are very slow to develop hair and the fur in those areas
will lag behind in length often until the baby is over a month old.

Many carry wool all over their bodies at first, with most starting to shed it out at about 6-7 weeks, until only a skirt remains. In most young Lionheads, somewhere near 10 weeks this wool will also begin to disappear and should be gone by 16 weeks of age. Some bunnies are born with so much wool on their bodies that they resemble a baby Angora. Some Lionheads never shed out the underwool in the coat to degree that will allow them to shown under the American Standard. Some Lionhead Rabbits carry the wool/mane down their face between their eyes (which is very undesirable under the Purposed Working Standard), and they all seem to have wool on their cheeks (which is allowed under the Purposed Working Standard.)

The mane seems to be a simple dominate gene with 100% of the offspring from maned rabbits (carrying two mane gene -2XM) bred with non-maned rabbits having a mane. These offspring are referred to as F1 generation crosses. It is impossible to tell the difference between purebred and hybrid bunnies as both type- those carrying heavy angora type wool all over their bodies or those with manes only – occur in both purebred and hybrid litters, and often as siblings.

The quality of mane between Lionhead Rabbits varies a great deal.

At the present time it makes no difference if they are purebred or crossbred. Some will have very dense manes, while others will carry a very long mane but it very thin in density. Some adults are loosing all but a wispy mane. Some adults loose their mane when they molt but then grow them back.

Most adult doe's carry less mane than bucks, simply because so much is plucked out by the rabbit herself when she
kindles. The rest of the coat on a Lionhead Rabbit is a normal rollback fur as soon as the bunny fuzz drops out. The
body coat is not like that of a Jersey Wooly or an American Fuzzy Lop, which have longer wool/hair all over their adult


LIONHEAD RABBITS do require some grooming, but not nearly as much as other wool breeds due to the lack of wool
on the body.
Here are some grooming suggestions based on their age:

Babies: Baby Lionheads tend to have longer fur in the vent area, similar to some
lop-eared breeds. Therefore they tend to paste up more than other breeds. It is important
to check babies that are 2-5 weeks old on a regular basis to prevent infection due to pasting
up. If they do paste up, wash the vent area by putting under a light stream of lukewarm water
until all material can be loosened and removed. You may also want to put some antibiotic
ointment in the area.

Young rabbits (2-4 months old) : Young Lionhead Rabbits have a little extra
fur/wool on their bodies, particularly on the lower hindquarters area. This body wool will
molt out by about 4 months old, and it is important to make sure they have adequate fiber
in their dies as they molt this out to prevent wool block. Regular grooming at this stage is
important so the Lionhead doesn't ingest to much of their own shedding wool causing a
wood block in the intestines

Older rabbits (4 months and up) : If your Lionhead Rabbit carries excess
wool/fur on their body, particularly on the lower hindquarters area, most likely it is a
double mane gene Lionhead. These require you to maintain extra fiber in their diet to
prevent wool block. Some people feel the double mane gene Lionhead Rabbit will not
be showable as adults due to the excess fur/wool, regardless they play an important
roll in breeding.

Grooming the mane (all ages); The Lionhead Rabbit mane can become felted similar to other wooled breeds,
so it needs to be carefully brushed out periodically. Since the wool of the mane is similar to the English Angora wool,
it can be pulled out if combed or brushed too vigorously, so it is important to be both patient and gentle.

LIONHEAD RABBITS seem to be very easy to breed and most do not appear to have any difficulty kindling. Doe's have about 3-9 kits per litter (Litter size seems to be tied to overall size of the doe with small does under 3 pounds having smaller litters). Most are very good mothers with abundant milk supplies.

If you plan on breeding your Lionhead Rabbit, there is helpful information within the Genetics Section of this website. Here you will learn how to breed for the colors you want, and a more in depth look at how the mane gene works.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Angora Rabbits

Picture of a French Angora Rabbit
The disposition of Angoras is docile and curious. They make good pets as long as you have the time to attend to their special needs.

They will need regular grooming to keep their fur in good condition and hay as a regular part of their diet to help prevent hair balls in their digestive tract.

The Angora Rabbit has the finest, softest of coats. Their fur, which is quite long, is referred to as "wool". This breed of rabbit has been recognized since 1765.

Background: Although it is not certain where they originated, most people agree that the original Angora Rabbits came from Ankara, Turkey in Asia Minor. Thus the name "Angora" comes from their place of origin, Ankara. It is also possible the name came from the Angora cat and Angora goat. These animals have the same type of fur and also come from Ankara.

Description: There are four recognized breeds that are bred for showing. The English, French, and Satin Angora are medium in size while the Giant is considered a large.

English Angora: This breed is probably the most distinctive since it has long heavy fur that covers it's body so that it is hard to tell the rabbit features like it's ears and face. (It is often mistaken for a small dog). Its body is rounded and so it literally looks like a ball of fluff. The fur on the face is fairly short and if you look closely you will see a doll baby face with large round eyes. There are fluffy tassels of wool lining the ears and the wool is silky and fine which makes it very soft.
Most English angoras are very calm having being bred for good disposition in order to properly groom them. The English may grow to about 8.5 lbs. but is better to show at about 6 lbs.

American Fuzzy Lop

American Fuzzy LopThe Fuzzy Lop, Fuzzy, AFL

American Fuzzy Lop Rabbit Picture
The American Fuzzy Lops generally have wonderful personalities and like many of the lop rabbits, they love to be cuddled! They have wonderful personalities and are also great for showing. They are furry and cute and can be very loving and affectionate.

This bunny is considered a good first rabbit for new owners. Both males and females are very sweet and make excellent pets though females can sometimes be a bit more shy and skittish. Females can especially be nervous with loud noises and fast movements.

True to their name they do have long fuzzy coats. They will need some regular grooming, generally once a week for an adult. Babies will need grooming more often until they get their adult coats at about six months.

Cinnamon Rabbit

Cinnamon Rabbit

Cinnamon Rabbit
The Cinnamon Rabbit is a beautiful breed with an appealing color combination of rust with gray ticking. Although primarily bred for showing and meat, the Cinnamon also makes a good pet despite its large size. A friendly animal, it is compatible with other rabbits.

Cinnamons usually have sunny dispositions, and they love attention. They tend to be reasonably calm, making them a good choice for children. They are too large for smaller children to pick up however, which can be a good thing because you won't have to worry as much about the rabbit being hurt.

The Cinnamon rabbit is a hardy breed but requires a well-balanced diet designed for a rabbit. Minimal grooming is needed, just brush with a slicker brush once a week most of the year and twice a week during shedding season. It will benefit from room to exercise, food and toys to chew on, and time spent with its owner. Like any other rabbit breed, the Cinnamon Rabbit should be provided with an indoor living area in order to prolong its life.

The Cinnamon is on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy's list of rare rabbit breeds. This means that there are only a few hundred of them in the United States. Although they are not considered endangered, they are rather hard to find.

Dutch RabbitsHollander Rabbits

Dutch RabbitsHollander Rabbits

Dutch Rabbits, known as Hollander Rabbits in Holland!

The baby Dutch Rabbits pictured above are about four weeks old. They are still very small and even as adults they will stay small.

The Dutch Rabbit is not a "dwarf" but it is a very small rabbit. Probably the most recognizable of the small breed rabbits because of its distinct markings. It is an excellent all around pet as well as a good choice for showing. Their easy going personality and their small size makes them easy to house.

Creme D'Argent Rabbit

Creme D'Argent RabbitCreme d'ArgentePicture of Creme D'Argent babies

Besides its sweet nature and docile personality this rabbit makes a stunning show animal. The Creme D'Argent Rabbit is a pretty variety of one of France's oldest breeds of fancy rabbit, the Champagne D'Argent.

Picture of a Creme D'Argent Rabbit (female)
Creme D'Argent (female)
Dr. Jungle..."Guess which one of the
babies this was in the picture above??

A feature unique to only the Creme D'Argent and the Champagne D'Argent rabbits is that their coats change color as they age. The Creme D'Argent is born orange and gets lighter as it gets older, an old Creme D'Argent may even be quite light!

The Creme D'Argent babies in the picture above still have lots of orange coloring. When they get older they will change color and become more creamy white.

Creme D'Argent rabbits are generally quite calm and enjoy attention. However, despite its sweet nature and striking beauty, this breed of rabbit is rarer than many of the other breeds.

English Spot Rabbit

English Spot Rabbit

Chocolate English Spot Rabbit
English Spot rabbits are mid-sized rabbits that are very active. They eat very little compared to most breeds its size. This, along with their love for running and jumping, contributes to the breed's long, slender build.

The English Spot Rabbot has a generally calm disposition and tolerates other pets very well. When handled starting at a young age, they can make good pets. But they are not the best choice for small children due to their high energy level.

English Spot does are known for being great mothers. Sometimes they will even raising young rabbits of other breeds in addition to their own litters.

Dwarf Hotot Rabbit

Dwarf Hotot RabbitEyes of the Fancy

Dwarf Hotot Rabbits

Dwarf Hotot (pronounced "Oh-Toe" or sometimes "Hoe-Toe") Rabbit is also known as the "Eyes of the Fancy". These little rabbits are bound to catch not only the eyes of onlookers, but also their hearts. Though they are mostly all white, the thin band of black fur around their eyes give them a distinct, unique appearance. Their small size adds to their charm and practicality. They require a smaller living area than other rabbits, and are easily held in one's hand. Their affectionate, playful temperament is another quality that makes the Dwarf Hotot an excellent choice for pet owners.These adorable little creatures are good with children and make wonderful pets. Like any other rabbit breed, individual Dwarf Hotots have individual personalities, and will enjoy their attention in different ways. Most love to be held and petted and some simply enjoy hopping around on their owner's lap, but for the most part this breed enjoys affection and they are quite affectionate in return.