Wednesday, June 22, 2011
How To Select The Right Pet Bunny Rabbit For Your Household!
So you have decided to purchase a pet rabbit, and now you are wondering how do I pick out the right one?
Well, aside from appearance, there are a number of important considerations that you will have to make when you pick out your pet bunny rabbit at the local pet store or other venue. This is important both to ensure that you choose a healthy pet rabbit, and to make sure that you and he are compatible!
Now I'll explain what you'll need to think about before heading out to buy your pet rabbit, and what to look for when you're actually selecting an animal from a local breeder, adoption center or pet store.
Housing: Do You Have Enough Space for a Pet Rabbit?
When it comes to tame pet bunny rabbits, they do much better indoors than outdoors. Living indoors will ensure that your pet bunny rabbit stays healthy and safe and gets to know the members of your family. Rabbits kept in outdoor cages are at risk of being threatened by other animals; foxes, dogs, and raccoons have been known to open cage doors.
Therefore, before you decide to bring home a pet rabbit, make sure that you have plenty of space inside your house for your new animal friend. For most rabbits, plan on buying a cage that is either 30 inches square, or 2 feet by 3 feet. You will also need to make sure that you have enough room inside your home to fit a cage of this size. If you don't have space for a cage, you will not be able to provide a rabbit with an adequate living situation.
Keep in mind that the cage should not just be placed in any old spot, but should put somewhere where the rabbit can feel connected and close to the family. At the same time, the rabbit cage should be away from heaters, air conditions, loud objects like TVs or radios, and not in direct sunlight. Since you will be letting your rabbit out of his cage for exercise, you will also need to put the cage in an area that can be bunny-proofed. (more on that later...)
Your Time Investment
A lot of people seem to think that because rabbits are relatively small and spend a good deal of time in their cages that they're easy to take care of. Well, that may be true in some sense, but it's foolish to bring home a rabbit thinking that it's not going to be much of a time commitment. If you are not willing to spend time with your pet rabbit, then you probably should not get him. This, of course, applies to all pet animals!
Well, here's what to expect. You should ensure that you have plenty of time for all the initial and intermediate stages of pet care, which include:
- Rabbit-proofing your house to make sure the little guy won't get hurt
- Litter box training
- Cleaning up after the inevitable accidents
- Spaying/neutering
You will also need to devote a good deal of time to your rabbit well after you bring him home for the first time. You must:
- Give him exercise (at least a few hours per day out of the cage)
- Give him attention (just like any pet or child, rabbits need to feel love!)
- Buy and provide rabbit toys
- Administer feedings
- Take him to the vet if necessary and for check-ups
Above all, just keep in mind that bringing home a new pet bunny rabbit is not so different from bringing home a new infant. You will need to spend adequate time preparing for the arrival, as well as adjusting to life with the newcomer. Setting aside time for all these necessities will make for a happy, comfortable situation for everyone involved.
Before bringing home a pet rabbit, make sure that you can commit to giving him the quality of lifestyle he deserves throughout his lifetime (5-15 years, depending on the rabbit-s breed and age and health at the time of purchase).
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Fox Proof Rabbit Run - Can it Be Replaced by Any of Those Large Rabbit Hutches?
Because your pet rabbit needs to have adequate exercise and play, and have at the same time sunlight and air, the solution to it is the fox proof rabbit run.
This type of rabbit enclosure not only meets the demand for space the rabbit needs but also provides a great degree of protection to the rabbit from physical harm by predators such as foxes, dogs, opossums, weasels and many others that may be there just waiting for a chance to get your pet.
But one question that comes to mind is, is there not an alternative?
The advantages of a fox proof rabbit run
A fox proof run is very ideal for your rabbit because it provides the necessary exercise area for play and run. It is big enough for your rabbit and provide the safety from physical harm caused by any of the animals of prey that could sneak into your yard.
Because of the many lessons learned regarding predators, design and make of runs have become sturdier and proofed against any of them. Runs are now constructed of durable and sturdy materials like welded wire, rather than wire mesh or chicken wire. The reason is, the wire mesh or chicken wire can easily be destroyed by stronger predators like the strong and wily fox.
Aside from this, there are models of this type of runs with housing inside for your pet so that in case of a hot sunny day or moderate rain, the rabbit can have a place for shelter.
There is also the folding type which you can move or stow when not in use or if your yard is not really that big to allow a structure that stays there all the time, like the fox proof rabbit run. Otherwise, some pet owners make this some sort of permanent housing for their pets.
This is a lot better than allowing your rabbit loose in your yard where also are poisonous plants, herbicide and fertilizer treated grass and plants, that are toxic to rabbits and could cause illness to them.
The advantages of large rabbit hutches
Large rabbit hutches is an outdoor housing for a rabbit and because of its size, all the needs a rabbit for exercise, sunlight and air are met. They can also be fox proofed to protect the rabbit from physical harm.
Also, large hutches like this can be made of more than one storey say, two stories, or even three stories if you believe it is necessary, so that in case your yard is small, the needed space by your rabbit for the purpose intended is there.
These large rabbit hutches is actually intended for outdoor housing for rabbits and are constructed of sturdy materials. They provide both the ventilation and the warmth. Included in the design are covers to protect your rabbit from the elements especially in case of inclement weather.
Disadvantages of both
Rabbits are social animals and tend to live well with human beings, if properly tended and trained. If they are left in a fox proof rabbit run or in large rabbit hutches, the tendency is there will be less contact between the pet and the members of the family.
If you have the rabbit for pet, then the purpose is defeated by having them outside and with less contact between you and the pet. If you devote time for them or get them and loose them in the house, then this is not much of a disadvantage.
More than these, no fox proof rabbit run or large rabbit hutches are really fox proof when you consider that the harm that any of the predators can cause your rabbit is not only incurred through physical contact with them.
As various experiences have proven, rabbits may panic when confronted by those hostile predators which can cause them to run wildly, jump and twist which could result in injury of the back or other parts of the body. This may also cause the rabbit to suffer a heart that can cause its death.
Such incidents can happen even with the presence or supervision of a member of the family especially so in the case of those which are in the urban areas, where urban foxes are used to the presence of people.
What’s more, many incidents happen at night when everybody is sleeping so that no one is watching to ward them off when they come.
Because of this, additional fox proofing must have to be done. Examples of these are a motion detector which activates either a spray that will surprise the fox or a high pitch sound device that irritates and deter foxes or the like.
This means additional expenses on your part as pet owner.
Double Rabbit Hutch: Get A Double To Avoid Trouble
Rabbits make fine pets, but they are notorious for being wont to reproduce. This is a natural instinct that they possess, and more than one unwitting pet owner has had trouble with unexpected litters. The problem is that newbie pet owners forget about the sex of the animals, and the consequences that may ensue. For the most part, it is a failure on the part of the pet owner to keep the opposite sexes separate. For example, if you have two rabbits, a double rabbit hutch makes a fine long-term habitat, especially if you are unsure of their sexes.
A double rabbit hutch is distinct from two rabbit hutches. You might think to yourself “What difference does that make?” Well, a lot actually. For one thing, a double is more cost-effective in terms of materials and time to build. You can save material on at least one wall section. You can save time by constructing a single, whole roof instead of two smaller ones. Of course, it can also be a bit more difficult to move the hutch as a whole.
For the most part, a double rabbit hutch serves its purpose well. One situation where it might be better to have two separate cages is if you need to quarantine one rabbit. This can be because the rabbit is sick or is being bullied by the other rabbit – as far as rabbit bullying goes, anyway.
Rabbit hutches are usually made of wood and wire mesh. The most common variations are the single and double rabbit hutch, while triples are a bit more uncommon. Some hutches are built to be easily attached or are already built with attached runs, to provide both long-term shelter and exercise area for the rabbits.
So why choose a hutch instead of a cage? Cages are made of mesh or bars on all sides. This provides excellent ventilation and waste management properties, but in fact the openness can be a little too much. Rabbits are docile, shy creatures, and they like being able to hide away, as attested by their natural affinity for burrowing. Hutch is often made of wire mesh on only one side, and has a section made of wood panels. This provides enough ventilation without making the rabbit feel too cold, while providing a more shaded, secluded area to retreat to.
On the other hand, a rabbit cage is more portable, since they are lighter given the fact that most cages are made only of wire mesh. Of course, if you choose a cage for your rabbit, you must keep it indoors because otherwise will be no protection against the elements. Rabbit have fur, but that won’t keep them very warm, and you can forget about drying off quickly.
Hutches and cages are small and do not provide enough room to exercise in, which could lead to muscle degeneration and immune system weakness. Make sure to let your rabbit out of its hutch or rabbit cage once in a while to stretch its legs. Rabbit runs are excellent for this purpose!
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The Rabbit Cage and How it Protects Your Favorite Pets From Harm
A very persistent predator that attempts to break into the cage may cause the rabbit to retreat into a panic-induced state, banging into walls and floors, trying to seek cover. All these efforts may result in the rabbit injuring itself, or dying due to a heart attack brought about by a fragile nervous system.
An indoor rabbit that is unknowingly set loose from its cage is put in a position where it is forced to deal with factors it is not accustomed to, like getting stuck in vents and nooks where it cannot crawl away from, and it may die from suffocation or starvation.
A rabbit may also chew through exposed electrical wiring, exposing it to risks of electrocution. Add to that unsanitary food and morsels they may come across and ingest, exposing them to complications leading to diarrhea and dehydration.
Especially when they are young, rabbits tend to jump and hop everywhere, taking for granted that whatever they land on or hit on the way up or down will cushion their impact. This proves to be a problem if your house has hardwood floors or even brick tile, where the possibility of fractures and bruises is increased.
All these dangers can be avoided if they are kept in a secure Rabbit Cage. It will be their home and guardian against all the dangers that await them out of their homes.
However, that is not to say that confining your rabbits in a Rabbit Cage will keep them safe.
Rabbits constantly kept in confinement tend to experience obesity due to overeating, and muscle and bone disorders, brought about by the lack of exercise and necessary movement to their bodies.
It seems that rabbit owners are torn between letting their pets go, exposing them to dangers their fragile bodies cannot possibly survive, or dooming them to an unhealthy existence within walls that are supposed to be their guardians but instead turn out to be their wardens and executioners.
Striking the balance between protecting them from harm and letting them go for healthy exercise is the key in promoting your rabbit’s safety and good health.
A good compromise in balancing your rabbits’ safety and health would be to get them a Fox Proof Rabbit Run.
A Fox Proof Rabbit Run is secured against attempts of foxes and other predators to force open your rabbit’s living quarters while permitting it to get much needed exercise by letting it run about in a protected, fenced in area.
A Fox Proof Rabbit Run is an indispensable tool and shelter for your favorite pets. It offers them security, all the while indulging them in their naturally active habits.
A Fox Proof Rabbit Run is the perfect way of showing your favorite pet that you value its safety, and promote its good health as well. And that may be the best gift you can give your rabbit.
Rabbit Cage & The Fox Proof Rabbit Run
Most rabbit pet owners know that even if they have a rabbit cage, they still need a fox proof rabbit run. These two are indispensable partners, if you want to have a healthy and happy rabbit in your possession.
The cage
The rabbit cage is an indoor housing to accommodate your rabbit. It should be large enough to give it room to move around. Rabbit experts recommend that the cage be at least four to five times the size of your rabbit when it is already full grown. It must be as high as the rabbit when it stands on its hind legs.
This size provides enough space for the litter box and a place to hide for the rabbit even for one who is of the dwarf variety because this one is active and loves to move around.
Rabbits are social animals and love the presence of its household mates. If it is kept in the rabbit cage all the time, it gets bored and aggressive or other unwanted behavior could result. If however, it is properly trained and the house is properly bunny proofed, it can be allowed to run around the house when you or any member of you family is there inside. It goes back there when it wants to or you keep it there when everybody leaves the house.
By itself, the cage can provide some running space for the rabbit, if it is the rabbit condo type where a room is made higher than the floor of the cage and a ramp provided on which the rabbit can run up and down.
If the house has more space for the rabbit cage, a pen can be places around the cage so to give ample room for the rabbit run and exercise. One thing is that the pen should be high enough so the rabbit can not jump over it. This is if you do not want to have your rabbit go around the house and if you can tolerate the litter it makes.
You can put a pen if you do not want the rabbit to go around the house because of its instinctive urge of chewing anything that it sees in the house, including your sofa and your bed. And this is trouble enough for you.
If not, then the only alternative is a fox proof run located outside the house.
A fox proof run
If the rabbit cannot be let loose inside the house, or even if it can be, because it needs sunshine and abundant fresh air, a rabbit run certainly comes in handy. A rabbit run has enough space for the rabbit to run around and play and if given the room to dig, it will dig. It will have the fresh air and the sunshine it needs in abundance.
However, a rabbit run must be fox proofed because of the dangers posed by predators which may be just roaming around looking for their prey, just like the rabbit. For this reason, even with the rabbit in the fox proof rabbit run, the presence of a member of the household is necessary because of the possibility that a dog or a cat or any of those predators might unexpectedly come and try to attack the rabbit inside the run.
Being inside the fox proof rabbit run does not insulate the rabbit from the shock that may be caused by the attack or any action of the predator. This can cause sharp reactions like jumping and twisting which may lead to broken vertebral column of the rabbit or a shock which may cause a heart attack. This then really needs the supervision of at least a member of the household as already mentioned.
It should be borne in mind that a fox proof rabbit run is not intended to be left there with the rabbit inside overnight, without the necessary safeguards against what could happen should a predator comes. And even if there are none, the rabbit should not be left there overnight especially in cold temperature.
The two in tandem
The assumption is that you, as the pet owner, have done and are doing the things you should do. These are having your rabbit vaccinated, the cage and run are properly maintained and cleaned, and all the sundry matters you are supposed to take care of are properly and religiously attended to.
Such being the case then, a rabbit cage inside the house and a fox proof rabbit run outside the house is a good combination that will make for a happy and healthy pet rabbit.
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Friday, March 11, 2011
Rabbits in Mythology
This is only a small sampling of all the legendry associated with the rabbit and hare throughout the world. A truly thorough description of all the beliefs and folklore surrounding rabbits and hares would fill volumes. These fascinating creatures have bred myths and legends as prolifically as one would expect from such famously fertile animals. Wherever you go in the world, you can see the influence of the rabbit. With such a diverse and long-standing fan following, it's no wonder that people across the world continue to pursue the wonderment and joy that is found in friendship with these mercurial, magical, and mesmerizing figures.
The theme of the rabbit or hare as a trickster archetype is repeated in other cultures throughout the world. In the mythology of many Algonquin Native American tribes, Nanabozho is a mythical culture hero who takes the form of a rabbit. Like similar figures depicted as Coyote or Raven, Nanabozho is more than a simple ne'er-do-well. His daring exploits and ingenious tricks are responsible for much of the creation of the world as we know it, and the gift of various kinds of knowledge to mankind. In one story of the Ojibwa people, he stole the gift of speech from the animals to prevent them from conspiring against mankind. As with trickster figures the world over, however, he often falls victim to his own ruses.
Apart from wiliness, fertility, and fleetness of foot, rabbits are often associated with the moon. Many cultures, especially those of the Far East, recognize not a Man in the Moon, but a Moon Hare. In Indian legendry, one of the Buddha's early incarnations was in the form of a rabbit, who traveled in the company of a fox and an ape. When the god Indra approached them, disguised as a beggar, each animal went to get food for the poor man. Only the rabbit returned empty-handed, but rather than let the beggar go hungry, he built a fire and threw himself on it to feed him with his own flesh. As a reward for his sacrifice, Indra placed the rabbit on the moon, where he resides to this day. In Japan, the face of the moon is seen as depicting a rabbit mashing rice on a mortar and pestle to make the cake-like snack called mochi. A similar belief is found in Korea, while the Chinese believe the rabbit in the moon is mixing herbal concoctions.
Rabbits have stood out in the human imagination for untold centuries. All across the world, wherever rabbits are found, they have become the subject of myth, folklore, and creative speculation. It's no surprise that these playful, intelligent and mysterious creatures have attracted the attention of mystics and storytellers throughout the world.
The most familiar manifestation of rabbit mythology to most Americans is, of course, the Easter bunny. Many parents wonder what on Earth egg-dispensing rabbits have to do with the resurrection of Jesus Christ, while most children are content to receive his mysterious bounty. The origin of the Easter Bunny actually lies in the pre-Christian times of the Anglo-Saxons. Then, as now, rabbits were known for being prolific breeders, and thus became a symbol of fertility, spring, and youth. The holiday we now know as Easter was, for the Germanic peoples, a celebration of the fertility goddess Eostre, and the rabbit and the egg were employed as symbols of the rebirth of the world from the deathly cold of winter.Monday, March 7, 2011
How to Shear an Angora Rabbit
Monday, February 21, 2011
Breed History
Lilac rabbits originated in a number of places around the same time.
The first known breeder was H. Onslow of Cambridge, England. In 1913 he showed Lilacs for the first time at the famous London exhibition.
In 1913, Mabel Illingworth crossed the Blue Imperial (a breed that she had newly developed) with the Havana and created a Lilac rabbit, which she called the Essex Lavender.
In 1922, Professor R.C. Punnet of Cambridge University crossed the Blue Beveren and the Havana to create a lilac rabbit, which he called the Cambridge Blue.
Eventually the 3 British lilac strains merged together and were recognized by the British Rabbit Council as the Lilac rabbit.
Another story of the history of the Lilac rabbit states that the breed first showed up in a litter of Havana rabbits as a sport.
Lilacs were being developed in countries other than England as well. In 1917, C.H. Spruty of Gouda, Holland, used Havanas and Blue Beverens to create a lilac rabbit which he called the Gouwenaar or Gouda. Gouwenaars are recognized today in Holland and the Scandinavian countries.
In America from 1922 to 1926 many shipments were being made from England to the United States and the breed was becoming quite popular. In the 1930's the Lilac was recognized by the ARBA and a National Lilac Club was formed. In 1951 the Lilac club became inactive and the Lilac began to loose most of its breeders but in the next year a few Lilac breeders reorganized the club and made it active again. Today, even though Lilacs have such lovely fur and sweet temperaments, they are still a very uncommon breed.
Oryctolagus cuniculus (Havana )
Scientific name: Oryctolagus cuniculus
Country / Place of origin: Holland
History: Havana Rabbits are said to be descendants of Dutch Rabbits and first bred in the late 1800s in Holland. They were brought to the United States in 1916.
Appearance: Havanas are considered compact because of their short, round bodies. The ears are short and upright. The fur is short, soft and dense, and strikingly dark in color, which are black, blue, and chocolate brown.
Average weight: 4 - 6 lbs.
Lifespan: 5 - 10 years
Grooming: Havanas require simple brushing at least once a week to remove loose and excess fur and prevent matting of the coat.
Rabbits naturally groom each other by licking the ears, nose, top of the head, and around the eyes.Diet: Like other rabbits, Havana Rabbits are herbivorous. The main ingredient of their diet is hay, preferably Timothy grass hay, which is rich in the fiber needed to prevent diarrhea, obesity, and hairballs. Leafy vegetables, though also essential to a rabbit’s health, should be given sparingly to prevent digestive disorders. For variety, treats may be given (although occasionally because of potentially high starch or sugar content) such as carrots, peaches, plum, apples, papaya, pears, strawberries, and other fruits. Commercial rabbit pellets also add nutrients to the daily diet. Fresh water should always be available, either from a sipper bottle or in a stable water bowl.
Housing: Havana Rabbits are best kept indoors to protect them from extreme temperatures, predators, and other outdoor dangers. They should be allowed to roam and exercise, preferably where they can get sunlight and fresh air. Extension hutches, exercise pens or lawn enclosures are recommended for safe outdoor exposure. If kept in a cage, the enclosure should be at least five times the size of the rabbit with plenty of room to stretch and stand upright. Wire mesh flooring should be avoided because the rabbit’s feet could get caught in them. A hide box or sleeping quarters should be provided for times when the rabbit needs to hide or sleep in private. Baby toys and interesting items should also be available for entertainment.
Rabbits can be taught to use a litter box. To avoid health hazards caused by toxic wood shavings or clumping kitty litter, only organic litter should be used such as paper, citrus, or wood pulp. Rabbits may also be allowed to roam inside the house as long as the areas where they are free to explore are “rabbit-proofed” for safety.Health issues: Like other small mammals, Havana Rabbits can be susceptible to colds and viral infections. Exposure to draft, sudden changes in temperature and stress can lower the rabbit’s resistance to sickness. Rabbits are also vulnerable to conjunctivitis (a bacterial infection of the eyelids caused by smoke, dust, and fumes) and ear mites. Intestinal ailments like coccidiosis (parasites propagated by unsanitary conditions), bloat, and hairball obstructions are also common in rabbits.
Behavior / Temperament / Activity level: Havana Rabbits are calm, sweet tempered, and social, getting along with other domesticated pets like cats, dogs, and guinea pigs. They are best kept in pairs or trios but preferably one per cage to minimize injury from occasional infighting. They are most active at sunset and at daybreak. Because they are timid, easily stressed, and physically fragile, they are not recommended as pets for small children. Havanas are known to be one of the best pet rabbits because of their very gentle demeanor.
Havana
The original Havana began from a Dutch doe and an unknown buck breed. A similar breed of rabbit appeared at a Paris Exhibition in 1902 leading the way for other European breeds such as the Feh de Marbourg and the Gris Perle de Hal. The original Havana rabbits are believed to have been bred with Himalayan rabbits thus the reason behind the distinct colors and brilliance of this breed's coat. The Satin rabbit breed which also has a unique coat began from a litter of Havana rabbits.
The Havana is a small to medium build rabbit averaging four to just over six pounds. A true Havana rabbit will have the same color on the entire body excluding the broken variety and the fur should be short, dense and quite silky. The body is compact but well-rounded. The head will appear to be sitting directly on the shoulders rather than the neck while the ears stand erect but close together.
Even with their incredible coat that appears to need special care, the Havana rabbit requires no extra care than that of other short-haired breeds. Weekly grooming is usually all that is needed except during the shedding season when extra grooming may be needed. The Havana rabbit also doesn't require a special diet and can be fed the same foods as other breeds.
The Havana rabbit breed is known to be quite docile, making the breed a wonderful companion. Havana owners describe the breed as mild tempered that bond closely to their owners. Their personalities tend to be playful and they fully enjoy affections given by their owners. Because of their compact size and sweet temperaments, the Havana rabbit breed has become increasingly popular among new rabbit owners.
Resources:
THE RABBIT HANDBOOK by Dr. Karen Gendron, copyright 2000.
http://www.havanarba.com/
Havana Rabbits
It is believed that this beautiful silky rabbit was first bred in Holland in 1898, using an unknown buck and a Dutch doe. Other European breeds have taken off from the original Havana, including the Feh de Marbourg and the Gris Perle de Hal. The original Havana is thought to have been bred with Himalayan rabbits which is the reason for the distinct colors and brilliant coat. The satin fur, a genetic mutation, was first discovered in a litter of Havanas. The first Havana was presented in 1899 in Holland, introduced in Europe in 1908, where it is still very popular, then making its way to the United States and accepted by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in 1916.
Today:
Chocolate was the original variety of the Havana but now black and blue are accepted. They are a compact rabbit weighing ideally 5 ¼ to 5 ½ for both bucks and does. They have a rich shiny coat that should have the same color over the whole body (except for the brokens) and very silky. They are known for their docile nature, friendly personalities, and love attention.
Looking after sick rabbits and info on common illnesses
Looking after a sick or incapacitated rabbitMake sure the rabbit has food and water close by. If its painful for the rabbit to move, it won't get up to eat or drink. Offer your bunny food and water now and then to encourage it to eat/drink.
The rabbit will also poop where ever it happens to be sitting. Make sure that the rabbit does not get a rash or skin irritation from urine on the skin. Gently wipe the genital area with a damp cloth. Remove any cecals from the bunnys fur and offer them to your bunny to eat. This sounds yucky, but rabbits need to eat the cecals. You may need to wash the rabbit's tail area if poops are getting stuck to the fur.
Most likely the rabbit will need a soft warm place to sit, where he/she can feel safe. Most likely this will be an enclosed space or next to a wall. Put towels, blankets, carpet etc. on the floor so the bunny has grip and is not on the cold floor. Block any draughts coming in under doors etc. You may want to use a WARM (not hot) heat pack or hot water bottle to keep your bunny warm after surgery. Most vets will put your bunny on a warming pad after surgery.
You may need to confine your rabbit if he/she has had surgery. Moving around may aggravate the wound and/or tear stitches. If he/she tries to eat stitches, you may need to use an Elizabethan collar. Also known as a bucket collar. Rabbits really really hate these. Bandaids (sticky bandages/plasters) worked really well to deter a rabbit from licking or biting at stitches. Check with your vet first to make sure its ok for your rabbit's wound. You can also use a sock as a body suit to stop the rabbit eating stitches.
If you have two rabbits you may need to separate them. Animals in pain usually prefer being alone, and other rabbits may lick at the wound and disturb the sick bunny.
Poopy Butt
Poopy butt is a condition where the rabbit's poops cease being solid round balls and are mushy and liquidy. Often the poops will stick to the fur around the rabbits tail and bottom. Poopy butt is usually caused by an upset in the rabbits diet. Try feeding more hay and pellets and fewer fresh veggies to see if it bulks up the poops. If it doesn't clear up in a day or two, take your rabbit to the vet. Normally rabbits have soft poops called cecals which are eaten straight away. These are different from poopy butt.
Stasis
Stasis is a condition where a rabbit does not eat or poop due to an upset in the intestines/stomach. If you notice your rabbit is not eating or pooping and seems dejected and unwell, contact your vet asap. This condition can be fatal, but with the right treatment your rabbit will be ok. This is a good reason to have your rabbits inside the house. It is much easier to see if your rabbit is unwell.
Head Tilt
Head tilt is a symptom that can be caused by various conditions. The most common conditions are an ear infection, Pasteurella and Encephalitozoon cuniculi (commonly known as E. cuniculi or EC). Head tilt is often accompanied by loss of balance and eye rolling. An affected rabbit is generally unable to hold its head upright, and the head is tilted to one side. Either one eye, or both eyes will roll backwards towards the rabbits tail every few seconds.
If you suspect your rabbit may have head tilt, take the rabbit to a vet ASAP. If the head tilt is caused by an ear infection, the infection may spread to the brain. If the rabbit has EC, the next symptoms can often be paralysis of the limbs and severe loss of balance and muscle control, resulting in unstoppable rolling. If treated quickly, these horrific symptoms may be prevented, otherwise they are generally not reversable.
Generally it can be difficult to tell which problem is causing the head tilt, and most vets will provide medication to treat all three problems (Baytril, Panacur etc.). Further investigation, such as X-rays may be required to rule out ear infections.
General rabbit questions and useful tips
Should I get a male or female rabbit?
Once a rabbit has been spayed/neutered, their personalities are quite similar. The decision really depends on whether you already have a rabbit.
It is easier to bond a male and a female rabbit than it is to bond two males or two females. (Bonding is the process of getting two or more rabbits to make friends). Bonding can be incredibly difficult, rabbits seem to be very fussy as to the companion they want. The best matches tend to be a neutered male with a spayed female. Two Unneutered males will tend to fight, as will unspayed females. It is possible to bond an unneutered male with a spayed female, however the female rabbit may become upset if the male rabbit continually mounts her. If he mounts her head, she may bite his genitals.
Should I get one rabbit or two?
Rabbits are generally happier in pairs. After all wouldn't you like to have someone to talk to? Rabbits groom each other, keeping hard to reach places clean. They also provide each other a warm cushion to lean on, and often one will be the sentry while the other takes a nap. Having said that, it can be difficult to bond two rabbits. Often they fight when they are first introduced until one rabbit is deemed to be the dominant rabbit of the pair. As you can imagine, this can be quite a problem with two headstrong bossy rabbits. Some rabbit owners are lucky as their rabbit is very accepting of a new friend. Its better to get two rabbits from the same litter as they will be less likely to fight. Read about Fuzzy and Thumper to get an idea of how I bonded them together.
Where can I get a rabbit from
Please adopt a rabbit from a shelter or rescue where possible. If you really want a baby rabbit, you can most likely adopt one, as many litters are surrendered/dumped at shelters. Buying rabbits from pet shops encourages people to breed rabbits. There are far too many rabbits being dumped to warrant more being bred. Also some pet shops end up making cat or dog food out of rabbits that don't sell. Often you can see a rabbits true personality at a shelter, where it may have been handled daily, and is socialising with other rabbits. Some shelters also spay and vaccinate rabbits before allowing them to be adopted, which will save money and time.
~~ManRabbit
Saturday, February 19, 2011
The History of the Angora Rabbit
There is much controversy regarding the story of the Angora rabbit, however according to generally accepted theory, angoras date back to the early 18th century, around 1723. As the story goes, there were some sightseeing sailors who pulled into a Turkish port called Angora, now known as
Some French authorities dispute the claim of Turkish origin of the Angora rabbit, claiming they were the first to record
It was probably not until around 1900 that there were any Angora rabbits in the
When starting with Angoras, the first thing for the beginner to decide is approximately how many angoras one wishes to raise. Are you going to have one or two angoras for pets? Do you plan on doing any breeding? How many does do you plan to breed in a year? What is the maximum number of angoras the space you have will permit you to raise?
Every breeder will have their own idea as to the style and design of the perfect rabbit hutch or cage system. All of this will depend upon the amount of space you have for the cages and if the rabbits are going to be housed inside or outside. Regardless of what you decide, it is important to keep in mind the hutches or cages must be dry, well lit, have good ventilation but free from drafts, as well as the temperature where the rabbits will be housed. Several people have asked if a barn, chicken coup, garage or other unused building could be adapted for housing Angoras. All of these buildings can be suitable so long as you consider the factors listed above.
There are many different types of hutches and cages that can be used. Some are made of wood and wire while others are all wire. If you are going to have several Angoras in a small area, I would suggest purchasing or making the wire cages so you can stack them on top of each other. Of course, when you stack the cages you will also have dropping pans that will need to be cleaned frequently to keep your rabbitry sanitary. When deciding what type of hutch or cage you want to use you need to consider the following: comfort of the rabbit, ease of cleaning and handling of stock, ease of dismantling for thorough disinfecting, resistance to vermin and the escape of the rabbits, and economy.
The comfort of the
Whether you are purchasing a cage or the wire to make the cage yourself, I would suggest you check the prices with various dealers to obtain the best price as cages purchased in pet stores are usually very expensive!
